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Schofield's Dish of the Week: Duck and Foie Gras ice cream
Jonathan Schofield loves the unregarded beetroot when dandied up with showboat ingredients
What:
Gressingham Duck 'three ways', beetroot cannelloni, Foie Gras ice cream
Where:
The Alderley, Alderley Edge Hotel, Rural Manchester, SK97BJ. 01625 583 033
How Much:
£10.75
Why:
As serendipity would have it I was invited for lunch at the Alderley Restaurant the day it received the news that it had gained a three AA rosette award.
It was easy to see why. The award is down to the clever, wily cooking of Rochdalian Chris Holland, who has been at the restaurant for twelve years. This means he must have been working there since he was born as he only looks about twelve.
He was appointed head chef four years ago (when he must have been eight). He puts his success down to, “the experience gained working in the kitchen yet keeping myself open to new ideas. I travel around and eat out trying to learn all the time. I like to take traditional British classics and give them a different character, an Alderley character. I try to provide a range of textures to each dish, whilst making it look attractive and pleasing the palate in a variety of ways which don't end up confusing the customer.”
The last point is key here. Ambitious cooking is a balancing act. It's about excitement, about creativity, but too much creativity can end up crap: a proper mess. The duck dish highlighted here, under less competent direction than that provided by Holland, could have been vile, instead it was a mini-masterpiece.
All the basics, the duck in particular, were beautifully cooked and prepared, and the would be maverick elements of the foie gras and the beetroot canelloni, were pure delight.
The true measure of the combinations was by pushing a little of all the components on to a fork and letting the flavours burst in the mouth like foodie fireworks going off. One thing is certain: if you've never liked beetroot before, try it this way - with foie gras ice cream, you'll be converted.
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28 comments so far, continue the conversation, write a comment.
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Foie Gras on the first new story on the new site eh Schofield? Class
Foie Gras and ice cream?
eeewwwwww!!!
Like the new site :). Probably take about a year to get used to it though.
Like the new site :). Probably take about a year to get used to it though.
Keep up with the Foie Gras love it, love it, love it
Welcome Stephen, good to see you on the site ;-) The Alderley hotel seems like our type of restaurant
Foie gras ice cream was the signature dish of Claude Bosi at Hibiscus for a number of years. And is still one of the best things I've ever eaten
yum yum i dont have to put email and pass word every time do i no memory !!!!!!
yum yum i dont have to put email and pass word every time do i no memory !!!!!!
Nope - just comment and away.. means more comments.. wooop
are you sure about the price? looks (and sounds) like it should cost more than 11 quid.
Rosie that's the price. It's a sort of big starter. Big in size, massive in flavours.
are you doing this on purpose to alienate any punters (paying or otherwise) who may care for animal welfare? <sigh>
Beetroot is one of my favourite things, along with custard, though possible not at the same time.
Beetroot is one of my favourite things, along with custard, though possible not at the same time.
Is there a general rant?
Just want to ask a - whats the score with the e-conceirge b - whats the list of 20% off restaurants I want to know if Grado is on it!
GJH I would email Garner and ask him! He is always very helpful and quick at getting back to people.
My 10 year old son loves Foie gras. And ice cream. I can feel a birthday treat coming on! Hates beetroot though.
Is it me or is the score for this fab review missing? If I'm too busy to read the review initially , the score is a good guide.
Dottie, this meal was not a review, so it wasn't scored.
GJH, The Heathcotes restaurants aren't yet on the system, but may be on at the begining of February. However, I have noticed that you have emailed heroes@ and I will make sure you have a reply in the AM if not this morning. Concierge system is simple, email any request with 24 hours notice and we will aim to please. We have a 100% success rate so far. But not another San Carlos with one hours notice! Please! Marcellos patience is wearing a bit thin...
ducks are better off on a plate than a freezing cold pond
Sounds nice.
How about recipes for some of these dishes of the week?
@Gorgo. We used to love this place and Mr Ahmet Karcher's wine and champagne list used to be one of the best around, I once bumped into him in Reims, quite a pleasant experience, only prob with the Edge it,s quit a distance for us, but when the weather changes we must go together.
Delicious it was too - here's to Ahmet and Chris (and come on down to Alderley ...)
This looks amazing and well worth the journey.
Want it, want it, want it. And I also want to eat this dish.