Manchester’s first lady of cooking honoured

In 1769 a Manchester landlady, Elizabeth Raffald, wrote one of the first English cookbooks. It was called The Experienced English Housekeeper and ran to 13 editions and was pirated at least 23 times.

Expect dishes such as fried soles with egg sauce which come deep fried in hogs lard and with green pickles or original steak pies and Eccles cakes or even a classic whipped lemon syllabub made with beer and cider.

It included recipes such as ‘To make a Porcupine breast of veal’ or ‘To make moon and stars in jelly.’ It showed how good English food was at the time.

This is the suggested second course from the book of a grand dinner for around 15 people: 'Roast hare, transparent pudding covered with a silver web, snowballs, moonshine, rocky island and burned cream, mince pies, creerant with hot pippins, crawfish in savoury jelly, snipes in ditto, pickled smelts, marble veal, collared pig and potted lamprey, vegetables etc. stewed cardoons, pompadour cream, macaroni, stewed mushrooms and dessert.’ Wow. And there would have been several courses.

Raffald during her 18 years in Manchester, ran two pubs, two coffee-shops, an outdoor catering business, an indoor catering business and an agency supplying domestic staff. She also compiled the first Manchester and Salford Street Directory giving the names and addresses of tradespeople, as well as The Experienced English Housekeeper.

Lemon syllabubs of the type that Owen Brown may make

Elizabeth Raffald

The story goes that she died of exhaustion. She also wrote a midwifery book with Manchester’s Dr Charles White. This may have been wholly appropriate; it’s said that Raffald was pregnant full term, sixteen times although only four children survived her.

In this year’s Food and Drink Festival, Robert Owen Brown of the Mark Addy is celebrating the remarkable life and times of Elizabeth Raffald, with a remarkable meal.

The dishes on offer are taken from Raffald’s cookbook and cover six courses plus cheese and garnishes.

Expect dishes such as fried soles with egg sauce which come deep fried in hogs lard and with green pickles or original steak pies and Eccles cakes or even a classic whipped lemon syllabub made with beer and cider. It all starts with a spectacular vermicelli soup of knuckle of veal, mutton with herbs, spices and of course, vermicelli.

All this costs a mere £30. Per head. It should be a night to remember. Call 0161 832 4080 to book.