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New French Restaurant At Last

63 Degrees Restaurant Opens In The City Centre

Written by . Published on October 31st 2011.


New French Restaurant At Last

AT LAST a new French Restaurant opens and people are getting excited about it. Andrew Nutter, current holder of the Greatest Living Rochdalian title, and eponymous head chef at Nutters, had a great meal there last week and was very enthusiastic.

Puddings for £6 include Le Délice de Florence, pistachio macaron and raspberry pulp. We love a bit of pulp.

The place is called 63 Degrees and occupies the site of the short-lived Simple restaurant branch in the Light Building on Church Street in the Northern Quarter. This was previously home to the excellent Bulb restaurant. The challenge, beyond the food, for the new place will be to get footfall on a street which defines 'tough'.

Owned by the Moreau family, the blurb on the menu states that the food ‘is an expression of modern French cuisine, using only locally sourced, fresh ingredients and cooking designed to delight the senses and convey a whole new world of taste’.

Which is a bit bleeding grand.

But if they can carry it off then most foodies will grin like fools to see a Frenchie prospering, and delivering, good Frenchie food.

Vive la Revolution. Off with Cafe Rouges’ collective heads.

The name, by the way, comes from the perfect temperature to serve coffee and the, again, to quote, ‘temperature of a unique cooking technique that (Monsieur Moreau) has perfected after many years of experimentation. Cooked long and low at 63°, poultry tastes like you’ve never tasted it before, incomparably tender and full of unforgettable flavours.’

But the menu is more than just fowl.

Here are some samples.

Starters include escargots en persillade, poêlée de pommes rattes et jeunes pousses, snails in parsley butter, pan-fried Ratte potatoes and young greens, 6 for £7 and 12 for £11.

Mains might be poêlée de Saint jacques, quinoa et crème de roquette, pan-fried scallops, quinoa and rocket cream, for £19; filet de canette 63° aux fruits, endives caramélisées, 63° duckling fillet with fruits and caramelised chicory, for £16; and suprême de volaille 63°, sauce morille et gratin dauphinois, 63° chicken breast, morel mushroom sauce and gratin dauphinois, for £14 .80.

Puddings for £6 include Le Délice de Florence, pistachio macaron and raspberry pulp; and billes de ganache choco-passion, coeur coulant et croustillant, crispy spheres of chocolate-passion fruit ganache with a melting centre.

We love a bit of pulp.

It’s a bit unfortunate that Manchester lies at 53 degrees north in latitude but only geography geeks like..er..me might get confused by this.

But if Nutter is right, and the Moreau family are doing it right, and the winelist is inspired, then this is superb news for food swooners in the city.

We can't wait to review. 

63 Degrees Restaurant is at 20 Church Street, City, M41PN – 0161 832 5438.

You can follow Jonathan Schofield on Twitter here @JonathSchofield

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19 comments so far, continue the conversation, write a comment.

craigOctober 31st 2011.

I cant wait, brilliant news

RayOctober 31st 2011.

Promising indeed. I'll give it a go in the next couple of weeks.

Calum McGOctober 31st 2011.

Cannot wait to try :)

Hero
Mark GarnerOctober 31st 2011.

French, at last, is the new Italian. not convinced about the cooking method, very prevelent in that there London, but no doubt you, Ray, will give us a firm opinin. Me being on a diet precludes me from doing so.

RayNovember 1st 2011.

I shall try my best, Gordo! Especially on the wine list...

Staff
Jonathan SchofieldNovember 1st 2011.

Ray, ignore him. Your views are always appreciated. In which case have a look at the interview our London lot did with Rebecca Burr.

2 Responses: Reply To This...
RayNovember 2nd 2011.

Ignore him? 'E's bigger than me! Seen the RB interview; interesting.

RayNovember 2nd 2011.

Off there this Friday. Review (well, outright soapbox opinionating) to follow!

AnonymousNovember 1st 2011.

The writing is terrible, hope the taste of the food can make it up. Then all will be forgiven.

Lorraine ByrneNovember 1st 2011.

Snails and rattes, snails and rattes, can't wait!!!

Anthony DaleNovember 1st 2011.

£6.00 for a pudding in this economic climate only people on the dole can afford that

Carl HillierNovember 1st 2011.

Amazing food, great cocktails and outstanding atmosphere, the familes attention to detail and Alexs direction will see this restaurant succeed and fast. Congratulations. Highly recommended.

The Bear CatcherNovember 1st 2011.

have just returned from eating there and I can guarantee that it was an absolute delight, and am looking forward to returning. We had the pea and prawn cream, snails, the chicken and duck followed by a wonderful cheese selection and upside down pineapple cake. Family run, the atmosphere is lovely, authentic and above all srvice matched the food in terms of high quality. Tres bon et bonne chance to the Moureau family.

AnonymousNovember 2nd 2011.

I was planning to go there tonight. However as I have a rule to never go to anywhere mancon likes, I have no idea where to eat eat today.

Jonathan SchofieldNovember 2nd 2011.

Anon. Why? Do elaborate. Especially since you came on Confidential and went to the trouble of saying that. Are you a bit weird?

Rob GreenNovember 2nd 2011.

As a rule, I never listen to anyone who doesn't put their name to comments on internet forums.

PaulaNovember 3rd 2011.

I ate here last night, food was lovely, I had the pea and prawn cream... little too much cream for me, it was quite rich, but pleasant none the less. Duck main was perfectly cooked, and the dauphinoise potatoes were brilliant. My boyfriend got the fillet steak which was under cooked, but I guess it was probably medium rare by french standards, next time he'll go with medium. Didnt get to try the wine it was just poured. It was quiet when we went, but didnt dampen the atmosphere. I wish them all the best, and I will definitely be returning in the near future to see how its going. Nice to have a new restaurant in town!

RayNovember 4th 2011.

I dined there this afternoon. Décor is clean and simple with warm exposed brickwork. Decent layout. Enticing menu - I had the steak (£24), cooked very well indeed (very rare to blue, as requested, with spot on caramelisation of the exterior) with superb dauphinoise potatoes. They really are very good indeed. My friend had the chicken (£14.50) with an excellent mushroom sauce. A side of fries was slightly soggy. Good sourcing of ingredients, and the scallops are hand dived, not trawled (which is EVIL) but this is not apparent from the menu. The dishes are fully priced - this is not a cheap place - but fairly so.

The wine list is adequate (3 white, 3 red, one bubbly by the glass), and would be perfectly reasonable in a simpler restraurant, but the pricing and scope of the list sits uneasily with the ambition of the food. Why are there 3 sauvignon blancs (of 7 white wines)? Why in God's name is there an Italian Pinot Grigio? An Alsace pinot gris would be more in keeping. Not a single white burgundy! The wines are (2002 Dom Perignon at a reasonable £140 notwithstanding) unprepossessing, and with such enticing meat dishes to hand, I really would have preferred a more serious top red than the 2006 Caronne St Gemme (£32) - a nice little drop, but that's it. Finally, I could not find a dessert wine. Odd.

It's too early to comment on the service (which needs refining ) but it's a friendly place, still quiet at the moment, and it has promise. I'll be back (but will thrash out a corkage deal so I can give the food a deserving match) as this place deserves the chance to evolve and prosper.

FussyCowFebruary 26th 2012.

Reserved a table for 9pm. They called at 8.45pm to say could we make it 9.15pm. Finally seated at 9.45pm, with the first morsel of food arriving on our table at 10.25pm.
The waitress kindly brought a plate of complimentary saucisson (ill thought out, however, as our party of 7 included one pregnant woman unable to eat raw meat; a muslim, and two vegetarians) The other 3 devoured happily and said how nice it was. Meanwhile the rest of us got hungrier... What French restaurant doesn't have bread?!

I was looking forward to snails, but was very disappointed that they were tasteless and bouncy.
The chicken with morels was exceptional. The dauphinoise was lovely also.
Had it not been close to 1am, I would have loved to try dessert; unfortunately by then we were too tired.

Such a shame they messed up in so many ways. Hopefully they will iron out these problems...

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