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Philip Hamer has a damn fine time on the wine at Evuna

Published on May 6th 2008.


For the past four years Evuna, the Spanish tapas restaurant on Deansgate, has deservedly developed an impressive reputation for its entirely Spanish wine list. Manager Jane Dowler has continued to reveal her enthusiasm for all things Iberian and vinous by revamping the imaginative and carefully thought-out list with the addition of six whites and five reds.

Made from 100% Verdejo, a grape variety that only seems to grow well in Spain, Trascampanas (£8) has an intensity and excellent balance with a lovely aftertaste of really ripe fruit.

At a recent wine tasting, three of the whites tasted superbly. They should bury once and for all the long established myth that most Spanish white wine belongs in paint stripper bottles. At Evuna you can buy the wines to drink at your table or you can buy them to take away. The prices I quote below are take away prices.

If, like myself, you have recently tasted too many poor Pinot Grigios or over fragrant Viogniers then these three white wines will come as a revelation and provide you with zesty drinking company through the most inclement of Manchester summers.

It says much for the careful wine selection at Evuna that Jane tasted these three wines herself in Spain and has directly imported them.

Rueda is a Spanish region that will provide the perfect white wine antidote to the over Pinot Grigioed. Made from 100% Verdejo, a grape variety that only seems to grow well in Spain, Trascampanas (£8) has an intensity and excellent balance with a lovely aftertaste of really ripe fruit.

I first encountered Albarino grown in the Rias Baixas region of Galicia, some years ago when I was truly spoiled at a tasting devoted solely to this single grape variety. Senorio de Lazoiro (£12) is a stunning example of a wine that really is peachily refreshing but yet has considerable depth.

For many, white Rioja is a little known delight and Abando (£12) should make many converts. It is made of 100% Viura, and is a medium bodied wine which provides the most delightful accompaniment to blue cheese. A gentle oakiness has enhanced this wine which should warm anybody stuck barbecuing in a patio gale.

Let’s finish with a red. After all red wine consumption at Evuna emphatically outscores white wine consumption. Portillejo provides this restaurant with its ever dependable house wine and it also produces a very serious Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva (£15) from the great 2001 vintage in Spain. There is punch and finesse here redolent of a good Margaux, but without the silly price the French would demand.

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a realistMay 6th 2008.

It is a nice place to eat but have you seen the rest of the stores on that block, they are all turning into estate agents, theres now 4 on that run. What are the landlords thinking, what was once the home of funky independants will soon become a wasteland.

elliemayrayMay 6th 2008.

i've eaten at this place a few times and hard as i tried,i just didn't get it. The food was average to say the least and in my opinion vastly overpriced. As for the sevice? PANTS!! Go to EL Rincon De Rafas if you want a true taste of spain,not as smart as Evuna,granted,but much more honest

johnthebriefMay 6th 2008.

I tried Evuna a couple of times when it first opened, and decided there were other places that deserved my custom more.

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