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The Living Room

Vanessa Lees attends the Night of the Living Dead on Deansgate

Published on January 31st 2008.


The Living Room

When a journalist for a national magazine visited Wilmslow some years back, he commented that it was ‘fur coat and no knickers’. Which seems a fair enough comment.The Living Room used to be perhaps Manchester’s one and only ‘fur coat and no knickers’ establishment, although nowadays it’s been joined by the likes of Panacea and Sugar Lounge.

No sooner had the fork pierced the delicate pastry top, did it sink quickly into a shallow grave of puny, gallstone sized pieces of steak.

I stopped frequenting the place round about the time I discovered Love Film and the joys of Friday nights on the sofa. But during those years of abstinence it seems I haven’t missed much. The same cocks of the North still congregate there. They remain territorial to their hunting ground, puffing out their steroid chests as a lone chick self-consciously scuttles past on that excruciatingly lengthy catwalk from the restaurant to the toilet.

The worn wood and cracked surfaces of the Living Room can no longer even pass for shabby-chic. Fortunately as the furnishings have faded, so has the attitude of the staff mellowed, especially in the restaurant, where surliness has been replaced by warm smiles and snappy service.

Time seems to have stood for the menu too. There’s nothing offensive about the food at the Living Room, it’s just so terribly predictable. The old favourite of quarter of a Peking duck with pancakes and hoi sin sauce (£7.75) is still there like a comfy pair of pants, but it’s been shaken up a tad with a ‘modern twist’ as they say in the trade. The meat was chunky, succulent and sliced as opposed to shredded and it was jazzed up with slick minimalist presentation. But don’t dribble too much as that’s where the excitement abruptly ends.

My husband’s main course tuna steak with lemon aioli with rocket (£14.95) arrived raw. It had a pulse.

Confused, we quickly referred back to the menu to see if we’d managed to overlook the word ‘sushi’. But no. It also arrived as cold as a mortuary slab. However, as my pores began to open from the steam rising from my piping hot steak, ale and mushroom pie £10.95) it quickly became apparent why. My husband’s tuna had suffered for my beast of a pie. I felt a moment of guilt. It’s funny how swiftly guilt passes.

I refer to the pie as a beast but size isn’t important – it’s what you do with it that counts. No sooner had the fork pierced the delicate pastry top, did it sink quickly into a shallow grave of puny, gallstone sized pieces of steak. Pity, as the flavour was really quite rich and tasty – a real winter warmer, if it had beefed up.

The Living Room must have employed Derren Brown as Head Chef for the evening as he was a real whizz at the art of deception. The apple and cherry crumble with custard (£4.95) looked extremely promising but resulted in synthetic fruit in a gloopy, syrupy filling topped with a thin layer of sugar as opposed to crumble. The only thing that slightly redeemed it was an unexpected, cheeky almond aftertaste.

Dining in the Living Room wasn’t the most impressive of experiences. Like a failed contestant on Who Wants to Be a Millionaire trying to rationalise their loss, I came with nothing and left with nothing.

Rating: 12.5/20
Breakdown: 6/10 Food
4/5 Service
2.5/5 Ambience
Address: The Living Room
80 Deansgate Manchester
M3 2ER
0161 832 0083
Sun, Mon and Tues 10am - 12am, Wed - Thurs 10am - 1am, Fri - Sat 10am - 2am

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63 comments so far, continue the conversation, write a comment.

Mickey NoonyJanuary 31st 2008.

Sadly or not so, never had the chance to visit so cannot really comment, although I regularly have a great 3 course meal with coffee. On my knee in front of the teli in the comfort of my own Living Room

KaneJanuary 31st 2008.

Delia Smith; with an attitude like that my dear, you may struggle to find anywhere that can appease you! The hard fact is that after nine years it's still as busy as ever, everyone does have a bad day, it's how we deal with it that matters! Why do people always slag off success in this country?

Sarah Louise JonesJanuary 31st 2008.

Let's face it, it's not really a Restaurant, or at least if I want top nosh it's not top of my list for a la carte. However - for the price and a nice comfortable atmosphere, then I think it's good value for money. How dare you offend one of my favourite venues! ..and as for what I think may have been a depiction of pretence with regards the 'fur coat no knickers' no way! It's not trying to be exclusive, drinks are inexpensive and the staff have never chucked me out for dancing and prancing up and down that catwalk like a wild beast let out of a salsa sassoon, ha ha!!!!

treeJanuary 31st 2008.

ps. mary clare... I dont think she actually thought she had misread the menu...

Steve FJanuary 31st 2008.

Let me Say about the Living room Deansgate, still one of my favourite venues, because it is not pretenious, instead offers a relaxed atmosphere to dine and drink with friends, yes the door policy maybe strict on a weekend but thats because the place is generally packed. Try any other establishment with a dress code and see what happens.Living room has had 7 incredable years on deansgate offering a venue with great service good food and drink. i happen to know they have broken all records last year and returned there most succesful year. that is surely the best rating of any establishment. My advice is go in and eat and find out for yourself, good food good value great venue..

Paul CarterJanuary 31st 2008.

Surely, but surely there is room for a restaurant in Manchester that aspires to Michelin star standards. The Living Room is perfectly placed on Deansgate to exploit this, but alas no. The poor people of Manchester seemed doomed to live on a culinary diet of tired and outdated 90s grub, Modern British done badly and ethnic food, which, although done well in some cases (re: the Indian cafes round the back of the Arndale), is hardly haute cuisine. Come on Living Room, reinvent yourself and save us from the gastronomic wasteland that is city centre Manchester.

L@rGeYJanuary 31st 2008.

I don't know why anyone in their right (vanity free) minds would consider eating there anyway. It's purely 'it crowd' draw is off-putting enough on its own but when the 'it crowd' seem satisfied with drab surroundings and lack-lustre food, they're quite frankly welcome to it! At least somewhere like the Metropolitan (W. Dids - admittedly out of town) justifies its status as an 'it venue' with its food offerings.

kaneJanuary 31st 2008.

Ah! The negative comments start again!!It's about being constructive folks, something that seems to be escaping you.

JimJanuary 31st 2008.

I think we're very successful at slagging off success. And who the bloody hell would want to live in a country that adored or idolised the successful. Oh and the Living Room is tired and dreary and for those who can't think of anywhere else to go.

Why oh Why!!!January 31st 2008.

Why is there always such a fuss about The Living Room anyway? After all, now that there are so many its just like any other "chained" bar/pub and serves equally normal food. The only difference is that it thinks its a cut above the rest when really, it isn't!!The downstairs clientele would normally be better suited to a Wetherspoons and the door staff tend to let in those fat over 40's that like to spend money on pink champagne for 20 something wannabees. Get a grip girls!!! When I last ate there, the food was OK, the service was OK and the ambience was OK. Thats about it.....its OK!!

AnonymousJanuary 31st 2008.

Ive just been given a discoun card for this restaurant where its 50% off all food. I was going to use it as a pre Valentines day treat , but now maybe reading this and listening to my colleagues reviews of it , then maybe its not such a good idea , 50% off or not.

AnonymousJanuary 31st 2008.

you must have made a typo. 'a good meal at San Carlo' surely not!?

CagzJanuary 31st 2008.

I have a particular phobia of places like this and all the people that frequent them. But that's just me and I probably get called a miserable dog behind my back.

PANJanuary 31st 2008.

Try and be proud of one of the few Manchester venues that have been there consistently without closing after 12 months like alot of others. Now in its 9th year and still doing the business. It does exactly what it says on the tin. 'Casual dining' and yes they will have the odd problem but they must be doing something right after all this time.Try supporting local business rather than slagging it off for a change!!

KaneJanuary 31st 2008.

WoW!I agree with PAN try supporting your local bars and restaurants, instead of slagging them off!If you are unhappy then let the manager know, they are in a postion to fix it!This applies to any restaurant or bar.

BlobbinsJanuary 31st 2008.

Ade, thats kinda out of the frying pan into the fire mate....

AnonymousJanuary 31st 2008.

Why are so many people saying that the food doesn't need to be good just because this is a bar?? That isn't an excuse at all - there's numerous bars in town (and pubs and cafes and deli's...) that serve great food and rightfully so. The Living Room and it's parent company are more than capable of providing a good menu and a decent standard of food. The last time my boyfriend and I visited TLR there were small pieces of plastic in both of our meals. Apparently they came from the shell fish we were eating and were supposed to be there. WHAT??!!

CharlieJanuary 31st 2008.

Very, very amusing. I remember good service at The Living Room also. The food must have been forgettable because I have. Its time has come and gone along with David Beckham et al.Put it out of its misery.By the way, does anyone have an opinion on the aircraft hanger that is the Podium restaurant (or the atmosphere free zone)at The Hilton ?

gingerJanuary 31st 2008.

what a god awful place the living room has become. living on a reputation thats well past its sell by date. the staff at my hairdressers went there for their christmas party. apparently the steaks just oozed blood, revolting!! those which should have been medium to well done were like leather. They were charged for drinks they didn't have, they left saying it would be their last visit to the place. The doormen - enough said!

TrickyJanuary 31st 2008.

Well at least if you get yourself a gold card you can get 20% off! Or even better still go eat at the Malmaison!

AnonymousJanuary 31st 2008.

I am in total agreement with this article, the place needs an urgent breath of fresh air. I much prefer a meal at San Carlo.

Another Scouse BirdJanuary 31st 2008.

The Living Room in Liverpool is just as bad, if not worse. Full of the same phonies and desperate men. Ugh. The food is utterly dreadful and I doubt it would even get a 6. It had better watch out.

GeoffreyJanuary 31st 2008.

Your critic has lost the plot. If as you proclaim you are comparing like with like on what basis are her comments appropriate . Are you assessing Living Room against Panacea and Sugar Lounge . If so what are the points of comparison used.Living Room and Panacea are excellent places within their stated missions . I do not know Sugar Lounge.If the purpose of your critic is to espouse a personal dislike of bars and clubbing generally she must say so .Within its own area and amongst it's enthusiasts Living Room offers exactly what it's public wants and more to the point what is on the label.The criticisms levelled at it are cheap jibes from a totally biased observer.Why not ask a consumer at the three bars to do the critique . The review comes from a ManU supporter asked to review Liverpool FC objectively. Mission impossible

drew peacockJanuary 31st 2008.

"London standard food" says anon...what????? You are talking TRIPE mate! This is MANCHESTER!, We dont WANT to be London, we are who we are...there's good and bad places in both cities. Unfortunately, it's chains like this that are homogonising the Cities to be just like each other when it comes to leisure.London standard to me means thrown on your plate by a waiter who knows nothing about the food nor the country there are in and nothing about their customer. London is a dump..FACT.Regarding The Living Room..This is a bar that does bobbins food, end of. If you want a meal go to a good restaurant. Yes, even to Miles Platting (what were they thinking of when they put that threre!!??)This is the Republic of Mancunia..we aspire to be NO ONE else, accept it for what it is, live it, breathe it love it!

treeJanuary 31st 2008.

I must admit I have never thought of the living room as a restaurant. I have never heard any fantastic reviews about its food so your review is exactly what I would expect. I used to love a good cocktail at that place but in recent years Ive had a few average nights there with poor atmosphere and service so I dont bother with it anymore. My advice would be a good revamp (wouldnt take too much to get it updated) and add a bit of energy to it....somehow.

jomovJanuary 31st 2008.

I have given bad reviews on certain restaurents which Sugarvine has not shared so I don't particularly respect what is written on the site...abit one sided me thinks.Living room - ok for a few drinks.

BungleJanuary 31st 2008.

Geoffrey's off his rocker

Scouse BirdJanuary 31st 2008.

You can't beat the Living Room in Victoria Street Liverpool. Ten out of ten for food and service. Enough of the ranting and head to Liverpools!

AnonymousJanuary 31st 2008.

Living Room, Manchester leaves more than a little to be desired when you have such quality, reasonably priced lunch venues as Grill on the Alley and Piccolinos with a short walk. Deansgate is not what it used to be and establishments like Living Room are dragging it down faster than the knickers of the pretentious teenagers drniking there!It is not the same elsewhere however - Living Room in both Edinburgh and Newcastle provided great meals for a business lunch and fantastic service in a much more ambient atmosphere - don't rule out the chain as a whole!

ConfusedJanuary 31st 2008.

How can you give such a slating, then award 12.5 / 20 - thats not good I know, but not a disaster of a mark (in my eyes anyway).

AnonymousJanuary 31st 2008.

To be quite honest i am rather displeased by the Living Room full stop - they now have a door policy on a weekend and 'if your names not on the list you aint comming in!' Plus, if you are unwilling to spend £250 on drinks on a Saturday evening then you are not entitled to a booth. However, they are still happy to take your money any other time and as a frequent diner during lunch times i'm disgusted by the attitude of the door staff on a weekend or seem to think they have a very important job - yeah right! Thanks for reading...

I wish I lived on the curry mile!January 31st 2008.

All the Living Rooms are S**T no matter what city you live. The Living Room in Liverpool is particularly awful - full of W***ERS and wannabees.

AnonymousJanuary 31st 2008.

ricardo is that a plug for gastro or what?!

KeithJanuary 31st 2008.

I've never been to the Living Room and had no intention of going until I read the review by 'Why oh Why' but now as an over 40's male I shall be visiting tonight so any pink champagne loving 20 something wannabees out there, come on down

SteJanuary 31st 2008.

I eat in the Liverpool restaurant regularly and it's quite good, staff are friendly and the atmosphere is always good. No gimmick's, just a great night out. Each to their own.

JohnJanuary 31st 2008.

Mick asked, about 500 paragraphs ago, for recommendations for home-cooked reasonably priced grub. Well, apart from home, how about Sam's Chop House - if you can get in!! - or, for summat Hispanic and with a good atmosphere, El Rincon de Rafa. Again, if you can get in.

MickJanuary 31st 2008.

John - thanks for the tips, was over at the quays in the end so we ended up with Cafe Rouge (sarnie, fries and coke for a tenner with lovely service - do me for lunch).Anon a few back - you are obviously a very loyal customer of TLR but this has blinded you if you believe the gaff in Manchester "...set standards in food and drink service that most bars and restaurants only dream to achieve!!”B*ll*cks fella .... but, if you're content being a nationwide supporter of this company then good for you. TLR however, is far from the front when it comes to standards pal.I really loved the York gaff and I urge anyone who is over that way to check it out. As for the one on deansgate, no thanks... but if it has such a loyal fan base with long standing business, then you have to respect the place

NeilJanuary 31st 2008.

I was watching Masterchef last night and that bit where three of them go to a fancy-dan London restaurant to work in the kitchens, turned out to be a Living Room. Gee-whizz I thought...if that food is anything like the **** they serve in Manchester then they're not going to be tested.

AdeJanuary 31st 2008.

I have cancelled a meal there tomorrow night on the strength of this article although I was warned that it was usually frequented by Deansgate ****heads! Off to Bluu instead.

AnonymousJanuary 31st 2008.

Living Room is not a restaurant in my opinion...it is a bar. if you want cocktails and a pretentious night out then this is the right place...if you want food, then go to a restaurant not a bar trying to be a restaurant. Their cooked breakfasts are fab as are their milkshakes but crikey it is hardly meant to be a competitor in the foodie stakes...they were silly to request a review from man con. If you want GREAT food try Vermilion the new Thai is Miles Platting - now that is quality, London standard food...beats Chaopraya too! Or if you want classic Brit food then go somewhere like Grill on the Alley for a hearty stake...not somewhere like Living Rm that stinks of last nights revellers!

Nigel SlaterJanuary 31st 2008.

About time this place got its comeuppance. Plastic and frayed around the edges. And that's just the people.

MickJanuary 31st 2008.

Charlie - a good article and many a rant was held right here before Christmas if I'm not mistaken. I got my wrist slapped by JS for a little dig at him on the rant (sorry bout that Jonathan, more alert reader since). Anyway, the article and rants summed up your comment, huge place, little atmosphere and a limted and uninspiring menu if I recollect right. May still find it in mancon archives. Off for some lunch tomorrow with folks and wife - want some home cooked, reasonably priced grub - anyone want to drop me some suggestions? I too am I loyal member of lovefilm.com!!!

KaneJanuary 31st 2008.

I agree Ryan, the music does add a great deal extra to the experience.

AnonymousJanuary 31st 2008.

The new Spanish restaurant behind city tower is well worth a visit. Grado or something like that!

Mary ClareJanuary 31st 2008.

It is obvious that the word 'sushi' wasn't on the menu because it didn't come with rice!! (Doh!) Sliced raw fish alone is called sashimi and is distinct from sushi which is vinegarised rice served with.

CCJanuary 31st 2008.

I have to agree with the review. That place is going downhill rapidly, and I know most of us who used to frequent the place now prefer elsewhere. Atmosphere has all but got, and now it's just getting by on the name it build up years ago. Close it, refurbish, change the menu (and the door staff at the weekend) and open with a fresh new look. Living room? I'd rather chill in the cellars!

AnonymousJanuary 31st 2008.

This article has been written with such a venomous tone, it leads one to believe that the "reviewer" (this term is used lightly as they have not reviewed merely "slagged" off!)had outstanding issues with The LIving Room before her visit.As a constant guest of Living Rooms across the country over the past 8 years, I have encountered my share of issues and problems (bar and restaurant) but then again I've encountered the same problems at Panacea, the Blackhouse Grills, Piccolinos etc etc. These restaurants and bars have to deal with a massive influx of people on a daily basis with different tastes and requirements to get it 100% right everytime is an ask of even of the most established restraunters (having dined in some celebrity owned eateries I know first hand even they can get it wrong!!)As for the snipe at the type of customer, I found this to be quite rude and narrow minded. As a member of The Living Room customer base from manchester to glasgow and back down oxford I find the people that frequent them to be one of the more likable and diverse social crowds.In reflection shall we not just put this visit down to no more than "a bad day at the office" and remember that The Living Room has been at the forefront of the UK's (extremely fickle) bar and restaurant scene for 9 years and still continues to not only survive, but set standards in food and drink service that most bars and restaurants only dream to achieve!!

DrakeJanuary 31st 2008.

John, think that used to be the case (the nose-diving of Manchester restuarants), but the last couple of months of 2007 saw Grado, Vermilion and The Modern open, all of which are excellent. Mind, with Grado and the Modern, its hard to get in sometimes, but thats no bad thing (long leisurely lunches are the answer..). NOne of them are going to get Michelin stars, but so what...

AnonymousJanuary 31st 2008.

At last an honest review from somebody who knows something about food. On my only vitit there I found the food average at best & the atmosphere very pretentious just like the majority of its clientele. Fur coat & no knickers somes this venue up perfectly!

DavidJanuary 31st 2008.

I always apply a 50% rule. If any establishment takes more money from the bar than the kitchen, do not expect the food to be better then safe or forgettable. Answers on a postcard for any excamples where this is not the case.....

Nigel SlaterJanuary 31st 2008.

Most restaurants will take on criticism if it comes from a credible source. It's in their interests to. Sugarvine, as Mahew says, has the art of flattery down to a "T" but that won't help restaurants improve their business. Vanessa is lucky she didn't have the misfortune of eating at the Living Room in Liverpool, as my housemate did last week.

MahewJanuary 31st 2008.

Delia's right. Sugarvine is all about the restaurants writing favourable reviews for themselves. It's bollocks. The MEN seems to be heading that way too. Manchester Confidential seems to going down a clever path of trying to tell it as it is. Well usually. Keep it up would you.

AnonymousJanuary 31st 2008.

Totally agree with the article...The Living Room is fading into a "has been/yesterday" place. With regard to the raw tuna....it's very common to eat it raw outside the UK (and not just Japan). In the US, they very often ask how you would like the Tuna to be cooked, as like with a steak; and I was in Paris last week, and had a raw tuna starter with a lime jus. I think it was probably a lack of description on the menu, combined with a very British expectation, that everything should be cooked to look like it came from a Cherbobyl reactor!

dave the gourmet !January 31st 2008.

San Carlo is not the best of places it has to be said, one of there waiters described it as a supermarket, not a restaurant! i have eaten there 3 times in the last 2 weeks, 1st time pasta ok, 2nd calves Liver crap and 3rd time pasta ,again ok, but ok isnt good enough, i can make pasta at home its not difficult! Also went to shimla pink last night, Akbar bombed out, Shimla about 6 tables, moral Its too expensive at shimla and quality not as good as it used to be ,also got ripped off for £9 drinks I didnt get.Manchester restaurants ingeneral need to shake there menus and staff up, its going to be a tough year in the trade,of that I am sure

KeithJanuary 31st 2008.

I eat out a considerable number of times over a year, mostly out of the UK (due to travelling for work)and while Manchester has improved for restaurants I still think that few if any of the Manchester restaurants would survive in the country that their food represents, a good example of this is San Carlo where after 3 visits (I give places a chance) I would never choose to go again. Following on from Drake's post I am eating at Grado tonight for the first time so cannot comment on it yet. For Vermilion I went last Sunday and I would say it is worth one visit to see the decor but the food is averageb and well over priced.

JohnJanuary 31st 2008.

I think all the leading restaurants in Manchester have taken a severe nose dive over the last 2 years. I struggle to think of places to go now. As for the Living Room menu, i can't belive they employ a person just to write the menu's & i also heard they picture their food and tell the chefs off if it doesn't match the picture - Is it turning into Mcdonals- oh chef you used 3 grindes of pepper instead of 2 tutt tutt.

RyanJanuary 31st 2008.

My friend told me about this review after I had gone to the Living Room this week. Had I read it before I may not have bothered but I'm glad i didnt know as we had a fantastic meal and the service was superb and no one seems to be mentioning the live music, which adds something to the Living Room that few other restaurants have. You'd be hard pushed to go anywhere on a Monday evening with that sort of lively atmosphere and quality music, that kept us out far later than we intended. Maybe Vanessa Lees or indeed the living room was just having a bad day?

ricardoJanuary 31st 2008.

Excelent article! can't agree more about the Deansgate set - people should try further afield now for good food and service - try the supurb new Gastro's on Sackville st. or the well run in, better than ok felicini on oxford st.

Delia SmithJanuary 31st 2008.

Excuse me, if the manager is a thicko then it won't be fixed. If the bar/restaurant can't be arsed it won't be fixed. Is it Vanessa Lees' or Gordo's, or anyone's job to have a "little word on the QT" or is it their job to present the facts on what you might or might not get for your hard earned £100? This is not a vanity website like Sugavine, which is why we all love the food reviews. Transparency, transparency, transparency...

AnonymousJanuary 31st 2008.

I have been twice now and to say the food and service left a lot to be desired. The staff are rude and very self opinionated servicing over priced drinks and cold food. There won't be a third visit.

smittyJanuary 31st 2008.

Excellent review! Last time I had the misfortune of going into the Living Room was about two years ago. It was lashing down and we wanted martinis. I ran to the door and the doorman said I wasn't getting. Why? Because I was wearing "trainers". I wasn't, I was wearing a rather lovely, and much missed, pair of leather shoes which were made my adidas.However, the doorman then looked behind me and saw the two other people I was with. One was a rather normal looking lad, just like me. The other was a fabulous and beautiful friend of ours who was looking as lovely as she always does. The doorman then said, oh excuse me of course you can come in. We were shocked, but also wet, so we went in had a, frankly, disappointing martini each and fled to Canal Street!

AnonymousJanuary 31st 2008.

Agree somewhat about Sugarvine - they do not publish negative/bad reviews, they send them directly to the restaurant/bar and I would hope that any decent place would act upon the comments. However, any online site that invites reviews is open to abuse. Yes, maybe some employees write their own fabulous 'reviews' of their establishment but equally, ex-employees or employees of competitor businesses often post negative comments. One such site which springs to mind is Whathappenedlastnight - I have been on the receiving end of a published comment on this site which was quite clearly posted by someone I had recently fired, even though they used a pretend name. The comment was not only untrue it was slanderous and libellous and it was removed PDQ. If you read between the lines, you can generally spot the genuine comments

jomovJanuary 31st 2008.

Although Panacea seems to have overtaken The Living Room where pretentiousness is concerned...The Living Room still ranks quite highly!Wouldn't go to eat there and only go to drink there when others request it. Full of young girls after rich older men, obviously one of whom has already commented on this article.

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