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The Church Green review

Jonathan Schofield gets dazed and confused by too much on his plate at Aiden Byrne’s Lymm venture

Written by . Published on March 24th 2009.


The Church Green review

Lymm arrived in a welter of well-to-do modern estates of slightly too small ‘detached’ houses.

In the last two decades, the tiny but very pretty town centre has been completely drowned by an unreasonable flood of up-marketish overspill. This has been designed by those popular suburban architects: Noddy Toytown Associates.

But excitement was in the gastronomic air.

We were bound for the Church Green restaurant/pub, we were off to get a bit of Aiden Byrne’s nosh. Byrne is ex of the Dorchester and was the youngest ever winner of a Michelin star.

He was seven when he got this.

Ok that’s a joke, he was twelve.

All right, all right. He was 22.

First impressions of the building weren’t brilliant but then again this was going to be all about the food.

The interior of the Church Green is full of useless fireplaces, bits of florid wallpaper, bric-a-brac, you’ve seen it all before. The designers should have kept it simple like the sweet Cheshire facade of painted brick you pass through on entering.

Nor had I known what Aiden Byrne looked like before I went to the Church Green. I really couldn’t have given a toss.

Now I feel I am him.

His image is all over the place. There are books and photographs everywhere with the young gent’s earnest features starring out from them, in moody black and white if I recall. The self-love is so clear maybe they should re-name the place The Aiden Byrne, forget the Church Green. If things go wrong he could always add a y and call it a Byrney Inn and sell knicker-blocker glories and Irish Coffees.

Unfortunately the self-reverence worked its way into the cooking.

One of the mains the five of us enjoyed was the most expensive item on the menu. This was the braised veal and lobster tail with lentils, apple puree and several thousand other elements. I ran out of paper recording them. Total £24.

Here’s a little parable.

I once knew a friend of a friend’s grandparents who had too much money. One Christmas they bought their four year old grandson loads of presents over and above what other people, including the lad’s parents, had bought. Most of the gifts were expensive and wrapped professionally. The boy got bored half way through opening and was soon playing with one of the toys he’d received earlier in the day. The grandparents were devastated.

Byrne’s signature veal and lobster tail dish was like this. It was simply too much of a good thing. Taken individually it was all pretty good – especially that finely textured, exquisite, lobster tail. Maybe Byrne should have split the dish up, tucked each item into a different ramekin with the veal and lobster out on their own. Taken as a whole on a single plate, it was like a football manager with an inflated squad trying to keep everyone happy by playing them all. The result was a confused mess.

None of the five mains we had worked.

For example, the monkfish (£17.50) was fine, but it came with an unnecessary razor clam, along with a claggy courgette puree, a fondant potato and not very nice peppers. The best main was the splendid Herdwick lamb (£17), cooked medium rare as requested. But there was a confusing cauliflower cous cous on the dish with it, spoiling things by being too harsh a contrast. A nice touch, but again pointless, was a sealed tub of horse-radishy shepherd’s pie, delivered at the same time.

Of the starters, the weirdest was the salad of baby artichokes, with artichoke mousse and toasted brioche (£6.50) on a slate. The best dish of the meal was the beetroot cured salmon with avocado mousse (£6.50) with the beetroot a real and intriguing addition to the flavour. A pudding of chocolate mousse and chocolate orange ice cream was almost as good. There was a competent cheeseboard of Blacksticks Blue, Raven’s Oak goats cheese and Butler’s Lancashire.

But we left with our heads in a whirl, unconvinced by the cult of Byrne. Following all the debate about the lack of Michelin stars anywhere near Manchester, I really wanted this place to shine. It doesn’t. It occasionally dazzles but only in the way that looking into a torch does.

Yet evidently this is a very talented chef. Everyone says so.

Maybe Byrne works better under a strong restaurant manager, maybe he needs someone to tell him to stop trying so hard. He needs to breathe deeply, slow down and re-write the menu. And get rid of some of the endless purees and mousses.

He might then be able to lower the prices a little. Looking at the bill, I realised that going to Lymm had cost an arm and a leg.

Venues are rated against the best examples of their kind: fine dining against the best fine dining, cafes against the best cafes. Following on from this the scores represent: 1-5 saw your leg off and eat it, 6-9 get a DVD, 10-11 if you must, 12-13 if you’re passing,14-15 worth a trip,16-17 very good, 17-18 exceptional, 19 pure quality, 20 perfect. More than 20: Gordo gets carried away

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58 comments so far, continue the conversation, write a comment.

rosieMarch 24th 2009.

was really looking forward to trying this place,right up until i caught mr byrne on tv.he was dismissive of the locals-apparently the people of lymm know nothing about food and he has to educate them.then went on to tell a story about a busy sunday where he "churned out burnt yorkies"and he hadn't trained for years to do that. i'm all for a chef with a bit of an ego,but when one thinks that serving customers is(and the customers are) beneath him,i'd rather not spend mark's hard earned at his restaurant

scoteeeMarch 24th 2009.

I always thought Wagyu was the way in which the beef was treated as in-the whole cattle gets a massage three times a day and fed with Beer.Kobe is in Japan and Wagyu is the type of beef?Still the best I have eaten and well worth the moeny if your'e a meat man like me...its going to be expensive when you consider the work that has to go in to each cow.and they dont keep many in a herd unlike the mass produced cows for the likes of the burger chains.

rosieMarch 24th 2009.

@anon.i'm not disputing what you saw,just suggesting that(given the differences between the two stories) you may have witnessed something else entirely.

AdamMarch 24th 2009.

My feelings are mixed about Aiden. There is an element of trying slightly too hard to please Michelin and not always retaining clarity on the plate. He is an incredibly talented chef, but I would go to Fraiche any day of the week over The Church Inn. Made in Britain, his book, is good quality food porn, but not a patch on Essence, the cookbook from Le Champignon Sauvage.

rosieMarch 24th 2009.

how do you know it was the same day?

rosieMarch 24th 2009.

glad Pedro saw the same programme as me!thought he came across really badly and put me off going.la boheme in lymm is supposed to be fab and would rather try there

EditorialMarch 24th 2009.

As regards the marking structure we put this passage: 'Venues are rated against the best examples of their kind: fine dining against the best fine dining, cafes against the best cafes. Following on from this the scores represent: 1-5 saw your leg off and eat it, 6-9 get a DVD, 10-11 if you must, 12-13 if you’re passing,14-15 worth a trip,16-17 very good, 17-18 exceptional, 19 pure quality, 20 perfect. More than 20: Gordo gets carried away.'

GordoMarch 24th 2009.

Is that Linen in 235 Pedro? They are overdue a review, haven't been in a while. Hmm.

Burnt in Great BritianMarch 24th 2009.

I worked with Aiden and the two punks that followed him around. I found his food to be a diluted version of Tom Aikens with no identity who is he trying to be anyways??? No wounder Aiden can't keep staff he is so far up his own ass of self importance and it's hurting his food! I hate to say it but I predict that in about a years time The Church Green will truly be out on a Lymm. Aiden your are out of touch with what people really want!

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

As for the gentleman / lady / Nanny / Chef even?? who also witnessed the "DO ONE IF YOU DON'T LIKE IT " incident ... You are correct about the day, and i am 100% sure you were there !! and i have to congratulate you on your remarkable sense of sight and smell considering you were apparently 3 tables away ?? Well i'm afraid I saw what i saw and it wasn't through Aiden Byrne tinted glasses.. My rant was not about the quality of the food as i wasn't close enough to see it and obvously haven't got a super sniffy nose or bionic eyesight like yourself. It was about the level of respect and courtesy shown to customers who dared to complain about something they were unhappy with. Maybe Mr Byrne is so far up his own Church Green that he doesn't need to listen !!!!

ChickMarch 24th 2009.

I ate here a couple of months ago, it's one of my locals. I left feeling rather indifferent. The food was good, well most of it but the presentation lacked a lot. I had the veal & lobster dish and thought the veal was way over cooked. The scallop & pumpkin risotto was an awful lot of risotto and a couple of scallops sliced across to make it look like more. The wine was plonked on the table and the empty glasses weren't cleared all night. The intention of the service was good just a little hit and miss. I won't be rushing back - especially as I left over £100 lighter - for two- and the wine was only about £20

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

Went to the Church Green at Lymm earlier this month and couldn't disagree more with this review. 7/10 for the food??? The only place in the Manchester/Cheshire area to even compare with the standard of cooking is Abode. Please lets have some consistency in the ratings of these places - to say that Aiden Byrnes cuisine warrants 7/10 (the same score given to RedChilli...!!!!!) is questionable judgement at best. In addition, perhaps the reviewer could take on board some of his own "advice" given to Mr Byrne and cut out the endless and needless parables/metaphors that tend to litter Mancon reviews these days and actually get to the point - the standard of the restaurant - rather than massaging his journalistic ego.

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

Went to the Church Green at Lymm earlier this month and couldn't disagree more with this review. 7/10 for the food??? The only place in the Manchester/Cheshire area to even compare with the standard of cooking is Abode. Please lets have some consistency in the ratings of these places - to say that Aiden Byrnes cuisine warrants 7/10 (the same score given to RedChilli...!!!!!) is questionable judgement at best. In addition, perhaps the reviewer could take on board some of his own "advice" given to Mr Byrne and cut out the endless and needless parables/metaphors that tend to litter Mancon reviews these days and actually get to the point - the standard of the restaurant - rather than massaging his journalistic ego.

RGMarch 24th 2009.

Me and my fella went to The Church Inn a few weeks ago and I have to aggree with the review. It was really disappointing. My fella is a chef at Abode (the best restaurant in Manchester by far) and we are both used to eating high quality restaurant food. Aiden Bryne's promises this as his cookbook is rather good but he far from delivered. I too had the scallop risotto mentioned above and it was horrid. Totally overpowered by the shrimp in the sauce and nothing to look at either. My fella had the duck for main and it was tiny. It cost £18.50 and was clearly half a breast of duck rather than a full one. Believe me I know that upmarket restaurants charge a lot for not much on the plate but this was ridiculous. Lets not forget that this is a pub. My fish and chips were ok but the batter was soggy. If he wants to sell restaurant food at restaurant prices he should be sending out food that meets that standard not ill concieved pub fare. We spent a lot of money on this meal. What a waste.

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

Sorry, Jo didn't mean to offend. When I put or see a comment like that with an !, it usually means a chatty, tongue-in-cheek, type comment. Never can get my head around the smiley concept but that is what was meant - honest!! ;)): (or whatever it is). Was serious about the excellent food though.

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

Dear Rosie, I know it was the same day, as I was eating with some friends three tables away, and witnessed the whole thing. It was embarrassing. You could hardly miss it, they made such a fuss.

AvoMarch 24th 2009.

The last few posts have prompted me to have a look at the Linen menu. I've also received an email from Panacea about their new menu as well. Both places have got an 8oz fillet steak at £21.95. Since when did a steak in Manchester get so expensive?

scoteeeMarch 24th 2009.

ouch

jamesMarch 24th 2009.

Just because you don't agree with the review it seems childish to claim that Man con deliberately writes poor reviews. I respect this writer but will still try.

ChickMarch 24th 2009.

I'm confused re the Wagyu/Kobe beef. I thought Wagyu was the cattle from which the beef came but it can only be called 'Kobe' if it comes from Kobe - as with Champagne, Stilton etc. Wagyu comes from not just Japan but also from Australia, New Zealand and elsewhere. I think the Wagyu at Ithaca comes from New Zealand, don't know where Grill on the Alley get their beef from though - still far too expensive in my opinion

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

These two women sound suspiciously like a couple I had in my restaurant a few weeks ago. First lot of mains sent back, given two new dishes and continued to moan - in rather loud voices, in front of other customers - when there was nothing wrong with either the food or service. Whilst I was getting the bill for what they had eaten (the 2 most expensive starters on the menu) and drank (a bottle of wine and 2 large glasses), they legged it out the door. Middle-ageish and dressed casually, they did not look the type - if there is a 'type'. Sadly there are people who make a living out of behaving this way. Needless to say, I called the contact number from the original booking - dead out of service number, of course

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

Enjoyed one of the best meals I have had in a long time here a couple of weeks ago. Cooked to perfection.Aiden also made it out of the kitchen to wander round and have a chat with his customers at the end of service. A thoroughly nice bloke and clearly very talented.Maybe if Aiden advertised with Mancon he may have scored more highly in their 'independant' review.

JinkiesMarch 24th 2009.

Anyone care to explain the difference between rump, fillet and rib eye? Rump is presumably from the cows arse, but why is fillet always so much more expensive?

JoMarch 24th 2009.

"especially as you Mancunians may not now want to risk a trip out to the sticks ... that means we can continue to get a table!" PAH! HOW RUDE!

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

I agree with the review, we went ot the Church Green and we all had his veal signature dish, there was just too much going on - less is more, we came out totally confused, it owuldn't be my number 1 choice to dine there now

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

Hey Jo - lighten up! Can't "you Mancunians" take a joke ..!

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

I was also dining on the day when the two ladies were 'ejected' from the Church Green, and you do have a very distorted view of it. I must say, I'd have done the same.The two ladies in question had sent back their first meals, claiming they were substandard, though in far worse language. They received two completely new meals, which they also sent back claiming the same. They looked and smelled equally as delicious as the first, I don't think they had any real complaint at all. They were clearly under the impression that if you complain loudly and long enough, it'll be free! Aiden came out of the kitchen and spoke to them for some time, and came over to talk to us afterwards. He was polite, personable, and really cared if we'd enjoyed everything. No sign of Chef Ego at all. As for them being smartly dressed, I don't know where you normally eat, but I've never seen such a badly dressed couple in a restaurant, even a pizza chain! What is it they say about Mutton and Lamb?I will definitely be back with my girlfriends, and we'll bring everyone we know. Well done, Aiden! Keep it up!

scoteeeMarch 24th 2009.

I worked out my monthly spen on meat at the supermarket ad other butchers a like.I reckon i spend around 80 per month on quality meat.Having found freedown food ltd I now cook more exciting food at the wekends with the kids,try something different.visit the website..http://www.freedownfood.co.uk

AvoMarch 24th 2009.

I don't usually go for fillet anyway but was surprised by the price. Give me a nice fatty ribeye anyday. Much more tastier in my view!

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

I'm local to Lymm and I have eaten at the Church Green - I am also used to fine dining, michelin star etc (for reasons too boring to mention here). INHO the review is partly right - there appears to be an element of transition going on, menu items being tried out etc. I know some locals who go regularly and my own menu choices have always been spot on (lucky perhaps, or just good choosing?). Even ManCon recognise that the food is cooked superbly (no doubt there anywhere) but it just sometimes doesn't hang together the way it should. Was concerned to hear of the bad temper display but the chap himself has always been polite and friendly when I've been there. It is inexcusable (and very bad for business). However, I hope he sticks around. Having that level of cooking available on our doorstep so to speak is great news especially as you Mancunians may not now want to risk a trip out to the sticks ... that means we can continue to get a table!

ChickMarch 24th 2009.

Oh er - glad I didn't compalin about my dry veal chop then. What a dispicable way to treat customers - too much watching Mr. Ramsey methinks

GordoMarch 24th 2009.

Interesting. I bought Mr. Byrne's cookbook, which is nothing more than food porn; I consider myself as an enthusiastic amateur when it comes to cooking whilst I am not bad at publishing cookbooks. If I was to review Aiden's book I would be using similar comments to Jonathan's above. However, Aiden is clearly an astonishing cook, hopefully, he will overcome exuberence, take a step back and deliver what he is clearly capable of doing over the next few months. I for one, welcome him.

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

Went to the Church Green at Lymm earlier this month and couldn't disagree more with this review. 7/10 for the food??? The only place in the Manchester/Cheshire area to even compare with the standard of cooking is Abode. Please lets have some consistency in the ratings of these places - to say that Aiden Byrnes cuisine warrants 7/10 (the same score given to RedChilli...!!!!!) is questionable judgement at best. In addition, perhaps the reviewer could take on board some of his own "advice" given to Mr Byrne and cut out the endless and needless parables/metaphors that tend to litter Mancon reviews these days and actually get to the point - the standard of the restaurant - rather than massaging his journalistic ego.

JoMarch 24th 2009.

Linen give 50% off their prices with a few deals they have on so maybe they up their prices to account for this...£10 for the steak aint bad!

CastlefieldMarch 24th 2009.

Haven't a clue if it's Kobe or Wagyu! Tried it at Grill on the Alley and wasn't impressed. It's just too tender, I want my meat to put up some resitance! Think beef mousse with hints of blood - maybe that's an exageration!

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

Dear Rosie, It was last monday, and I'm sure it's the same event. You don't see that very often!

SteveMarch 24th 2009.

I agree with the large one here...ribeye is the best and most flavoursome cut which is even better cooked on the bone. I had a couple of 22ouncers in the Longhorn steakhouse in Florida last week...highly reccomended. The golden rule here is fat=flavour

ADMarch 24th 2009.

For me the problem isnt the cost of the steak its the extra £2 lots of places ask you to pay just to have a sauce with it. Daylight Robery.

Pedro1874March 24th 2009.

Didn't fancy this restaurant from the clips on that TV programme about the chefs who had made fortunes and their agents. Now I will definitely give it a miss! Ed?! When are you going to review Linen and Sanminis in Ramsbottom. Sanminis is the freshest, most interesting and best tasting food I have had the privilege to eat in the past ten years.

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

Went to the Church Green at Lymm earlier this month and couldn't disagree more with this review. 7/10 for the food??? The only place in the Manchester/Cheshire area to even compare with the standard of cooking is Abode. Please lets have some consistency in the ratings of these places - to say that Aiden Byrnes cuisine warrants 7/10 (the same score given to RedChilli...!!!!!) is questionable judgement at best. In addition, perhaps the reviewer could take on board some of his own "advice" given to Mr Byrne and cut out the endless and needless parables/metaphors that tend to litter Mancon reviews these days and actually get to the point - the standard of the restaurant - rather than massaging his journalistic ego.

scoteeeMarch 24th 2009.

just a quickie,the heathcotes link to their website loops back to the mancon kids confidential page,ta.;@)

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

I Was fortunate enough to be stood at the bar in Mr Byrnes Lymm Fish n Chip shop last week . I say fortunate because i was saved any further expense simply by the way i saw Mr Byrne treating two very smartly dressed and well mannered young ladies . It appears that they had the cheek to return a meal back to the kitchen due to its substandard nature. However Mr Byrne thought it best to clear the trouble makers out by humiliating them in front of a packed mix by snatching the ladies drinks from them and demanding (and i quote) DO ONE IF YOU DON'T LIKE IT !!. Well Good Luck Mr Byrne, I can at least count for 3 people who won't be coming back !!

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

Went to the Church Green at Lymm earlier this month and couldn't disagree more with this review. 7/10 for the food??? The only place in the Manchester/Cheshire area to even compare with the standard of cooking is Abode. Please lets have some consistency in the ratings of these places - to say that Aiden Byrnes cuisine warrants 7/10 (the same score given to RedChilli...!!!!!) is questionable judgement at best. In addition, perhaps the reviewer could take on board some of his own "advice" given to Mr Byrne and cut out the endless and needless parables/metaphors that tend to litter Mancon reviews these days and actually get to the point - the standard of the restaurant - rather than massaging his journalistic ego.

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

Went to the Church Green at Lymm earlier this month and couldn't disagree more with this review. 7/10 for the food??? The only place in the Manchester/Cheshire area to even compare with the standard of cooking is Abode. Please lets have some consistency in the ratings of these places - to say that Aiden Byrnes cuisine warrants 7/10 (the same score given to RedChilli...!!!!!) is questionable judgement at best. In addition, perhaps the reviewer could take on board some of his own "advice" given to Mr Byrne and cut out the endless and needless parables/metaphors that tend to litter Mancon reviews these days and actually get to the point - the standard of the restaurant - rather than massaging his journalistic ego.

AnonMarch 24th 2009.

My parents live in Lymm, and we visit as often as we can. They're quite foody, and until recently we have struggled to find somewhere decent to eat out with them. Along came Aiden. His food is amazing- fabulous flavours, great presentation- and he's great to talk to. On our last visit on Mothers Day, he came over for a chat and filled us in on his plans for The Church Green and where he sees the future taking him. Everytime we visit now, there is something new on the menu. Aiden told us that it is a work in progress, and it's always changing. The only way to keep up with it is to visit very often and keep an open mind. There are big things happening here, and I'm happy to say that we will be front row centre the whole way.

rosieMarch 24th 2009.

the 2 accounts are so different that it could have been a different occasion. how do you know that it was the same day/people?unless the ranter has given us a time/date,you don't.

sylvie bennMarch 24th 2009.

its just food isnt it!!! the good the bad and the ugly....

sylvie bennMarch 24th 2009.

Hi kevin its about food yes but its also about opions i dont really like macdonalds thats my opinion but thousands love it,i say best try it for yourself...

PaulMarch 24th 2009.

Well, what can I say about The Church Green?- Arty farty- Fill-o-faff food- Pretentious- Over pricedI liked nothing on the menu or on my plate.My wife chose my meal (lamb) for me as I liked the sound of absolutely nothing on the menu and couldn't honestly care less what food was presented to me from what was available.The only good thing about the meal is I didn't pay the bill.It is not my kind of place at all.I hope never to visit again.I do like good food but without all the pretentiousness and arty fartyness.

jimmy kayMarch 24th 2009.

Flipping hell , the place sounds like a right nonces gaff

GordoMarch 24th 2009.

Jinkies, rump steak comes from the ‘rump’ of the animal, as you say, the arse. It yields about 40 to 50 lb of meat (from memory) from each beast, is a fairly well used set of muscles which gives deep flavour whilst being pretty lean, apart from the fat covering which is easily cut of the steak. Good for a manly piece of beef. Medium priced. Fillet is the least used part of the beast, that nugget of meat on a loin chop when you are having lamb. The yield is around 12 to 15lb per animal, is very lean and the most tender cut from the beast, it is considerably more expensive. I never eat it as I believe it lacks depth of flavour. The Rib Eye comes from the middle of the ribs, oval in shape and yields quite a lot of steaks. It is shot through with a fair bit of fat, which leads to a fabulous flavour and is, as it happens, my favourite. It should come in around the same price as rump.

RayMarch 24th 2009.

I don't see what the problem is with a £22 fillet steak. If it is well sourced and cooked, it should taste beautiful. I remember paying £18 for a fillet in Nottingham in 1998, for example, and restaurant overheads in Manchester are rather more biting than in Nottingham. If the steak is good enough, then up to £30 is not out of the question. Ribeye is my favourite.

JoMarch 24th 2009.

Anonymous, don't tell me to lighten up. How is anybody supposed to know when you are being serious or when you are joking? You were being serious at some point weren't you?

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

Chick - Wagyu is the cattle, Kobe the beef. There is no difference.£22 is too expensive for an 8oz fillet in a Manchester restuarant.

James Chapman-KellyMarch 24th 2009.

Methinks 'Anonymous' dost protest too much !! He'd be nothing to do with the eaterie in question would he?

Kevin PMarch 24th 2009.

Sylvie so why read the review? It's about food. Eh?

AnonymousMarch 24th 2009.

To be fair to Aiden not to many people will drive all the way out to Lymm for lunch or dinner unless they are clearly buying into something special, which may help explain the heavy Aiden Byrne branding.As for the review if the elements of a dish dont really work together then tell us what they are and why they dont work - this review seems all rather general, like you cant really remember what you ate...

ChickMarch 24th 2009.

Avo; that's about the going rate for an 8oz fillet - particularly if it's from a good local butcher - don't know where Panacea or Linen source their meat though. It's why a lot of restaurants simply don't sell a fillet anymore. They're around the £6-£7 mark cost, depending on how long they've been aged for and the souce of the cattle. Mind you, I'd draw the line at £50 a pop Wagyu (or even Kobe) beef, no matter how good it is

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