PREVIEW: Charles Campion On Hawksmoor

Confidential has a new recruit, former Times, Independent and London Evening Standard food critic, author and Masterchef panel expert, Charles Campion. Here he writes about Hawksmoor, the game-changing steakhouse to open its first non-London restaurant on Deansgate in March.

EVEN in the 1960s - the darkest days of British cuisine - you could still get a passable steak.

Before opening the first Hawksmoor Huw and Will went on a global steak pilgrimage and came to the conclusion that traditional British rare breed cattle produced the best steaks in the world. They could well be right.

Granted it was usually cut too thin and overcooked, but for years steak featured on everyone’s 'favourite meal wish list'. Whether you went to an Italian bistro or one of those tartan decorated steak houses, you could show your sophistication by ordering a prawn cocktail, followed by a rump steak and then a slice of Black Forest Gateau.

The last decade has seen British restaurants taking steak more seriously and scattered across London you’ll find French steaks, Danish steaks, Irish steaks, Argentine steaks, American steaks, Scottish steaks, even Waygu steaks from Japan. The simple steak has come of age.

Hugh Gott and Will Beckett are the founders of Hawksmoor, and the business is built on two selling points – great steaks and strong drinks. The restaurants may be named after Nicholas Hawksmoor (an architect who built many of London’s better baroque churches in the eighteenth century) but they are comfortably modern places and concentrate on doing a simple thing very well.

Hawksmoor Manchester

Lovely little plumpers

Before Manchester, the latest link in the chain was the Hawksmoor on Yeoman’s Row, tucked behind Knightsbridge – this downstairs restaurant was formerly home to one of Marco Pierre White’s ventures, (he was working with Frankie Dettori, the jockey) now it is dark and clubby with plenty of art deco flourishes. There’s a large bar and a lengthy cocktail list which offers well made classic drinks priced around the £9 mark. Bolt down a couple of 'Fancy gin cocktails' by way of an aperitif.

Hawksmoor's menu is long and the list of steaks is balanced by a large seafood section. Three different caviars are featured (priced at up to £70 per 30g), all are from sturgeon farmed in Finland. There are some plump oysters and oyster dishes – the oysters dressed 'Vietnamese style' are surprisingly good – adding a zingy citrus top note to the molluscs (£8 for three).

A dish of wild sea bass, raw with chilli and ginger (£14.50) is another winner, a cousin of the oyster dressing, this ceviche has a delightful citrus/chilli punch. Under the heading starters you’ll find Tamworth belly ribs with vinegar slaw (£10.50); Hawksmoor smoked salmon (£11); and a couple of salads – the Doddington Caesar is very good, salty anchovies, Romaine lettuce leaves, good dressing (£7.50).

Hawksmoor Manchester

Hawksmoor Porterhouse

There are fishy mains – including a 900g devilled lobster 'Singapore style' (£45), but you’re here for the steak. Chateaubriand, Porterhouse, T-bone and Bone-in prime rib are all priced by weight (anything up to £13 per 100g). Hawksmoor made its name by selling monster steaks to delighted City traders and if you decide to compete your wallet may weep. The saving grace is that the meat is excellent.

Before opening the first Hawksmoor Huw and Will went on a global steak pilgrimage and came to the conclusion that traditional British rare breed cattle produced the best steaks in the world. They could well be right. These steaks are top notch – there’s a fillet (300g £34), a ribeye (400g £30), and a D-Rump aged 55 days (350g £20). The rump is juicy, black outside and pink within. Add a side of Jansson’s temptation (£6) a creamy, savoury, potato treat and you’ll be in carnivore heaven.

The service is as slick as a cow lick.

The wine list has bottles that would make your credit card melt (Anyone for a bottle of Petrus ’82 - a snip at £6,200?). Thankfully there are enough options on the lower slopes of the wine list to keep you cheerful and at prices (bottles start at £27.50) that mean you won’t have to pawn a helicopter to pay the bill.

Manchester steak lovers take note, Hawksmoor may be the best you've ever had.

Hawksmoor will open in the Courthouse building at 184-186 Deansgate for the soft-launch from 19 Feb and fully from 5 March.

thehawksmoor.com/manchester

charlescampion.com