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George's Dining Room And Bar, Worsley, Reviewed

Deanna Thomas finds a work in progress but likes it

Written by . Published on January 8th 2014.


George's Dining Room And Bar, Worsley, Reviewed
 

NAMED after Victorian architect Sir George Gilbert Scott who designed the local village church (and also the famous hotel attached to St Pancras station) George’s is a complete rebrand of what was ‘Milan’.

I guessed my husband had got over his disappointing pigeon experience. Between enthusiastic chewing I picked out the words ‘tangy’, ‘very appley’ and ‘super that’.

It is still co-owned by veteran footballer Ryan Giggs and having been fully refurbished, George’s softly opened in late December. It still has the faint whiff of fresh plaster, gleaming paintwork and shiny new staff.

Outside in Worsley

Outside in Worsley

Decked out mostly in white and pale neutral colours, it’s a setting that really needs people to liven it up, which suits its intentions as more of a destination bar at weekends. There are a few decent design touches with modern light fittings, a monogrammed mosaic and the blingiest ladies loos I’ve ever seen with shiny golden sinks that look like they’d been cast from melted down C3POs.

Toilet bling

Toilet bling

Heading up the kitchen is Andrew Parker previously of Harvey Nichols. He’s written a people-pleasing ‘Modern British’ menu involving a few native ingredients like suet and black pudding, with dips into Europe (Italian ham, Camembert) and Asia (sushi, oriental dressing with oysters). George’s also offer lazy weekend brunches, traditional afternoon teas, Sunday lunches and a well-thought out children’s menu.

I’d seen from their Twitter feed (@Georges_Worsley) that they make their own bread (£3.95) which that day included ‘baguette’, rosemary bread and focaccia accompanied by salted and smoked rosemary butter. My husband selflessly snaffled the lot declaring the rosemary bread especially some of the nicest he’d ever tasted.

Fine bread

Fine bread

I started with Jerusalem artichoke soup with poached egg and truffle oil (£4.95) which was a pretty and perfectly seasoned first course. The stand out starter on paper looked like the venison suet pudding (£6.45) which sat on a small hillock of creamed potatoes surrounded by a shallow moat of juniper scented gravy. The flavour volume needs adjusting as the venison filling was overpowered by a bullish smoked bacon, the suet in the pastry needs turning up and the unnecessary micro herb garnish frippery turned down, but it’s potentially a cracking dish.

Venison Suet Pud

Venison suet pud

As it was a Tweet from Franco from Solita who alerted me to the existence of George’s in the first place, I decided to order something ‘From The Grill’. When Franco is not choosing diet defying dishes for his own restaurant, selling Porsche knives or Chesterfield sofas, he also sells Inka grills which are a type of indoor BBQ oven. He’s recently installed one in the new kitchen at George’s.

My whole baked seabass with fennel, lemon and new potatoes (£15.95) was a decent size and moist on the inside but as you can see, it could have done with a bit more char for crispier skin. Perhaps they’ve not had time yet to read the instructions that came with their new Inka? My side order of kale (vegetable of the day £3.60) was fine but I begrudge having to pay another few quid to have some green vegetation incorporated into my main course.

Shiny sea bass

Shiny sea bass

My husband’s main was a dish of highs and lows. He’d ordered local wood pigeon with white polenta, baby sprouts and game juices and at £17.90 expected to go a bit Henry VIII on a whole bird. Two small breasts arrived which I imagine is a bit like waiting for Marilyn Monroe to turn up and then opening the door to Dot Cotton.

I also suggest they might be pushing the boundaries of The Trade Descriptions Act by describing 5 single leaves as ‘baby sprouts’. As he assured me whilst polishing off my discarded fish head, my husband is no gastronomic wimp, but suspected the bird had been hanging around the kitchen too long like a wannabe WAG. It was a little too ‘high’ leaving him slightly green around the edges like the bits that remained un-eaten on his plate.

Pigeon

Pigeon

Classic apple tarte fine (£6.95) had a 20 minute prep time so we ordered some tea while we waited. I think the barman was responsible for choosing the tea supplier as he enthusiastically bounded over and poured with the ceremony good tea deserves. Half a big pot of excellent quality peppermint green tea served in colourful vintage China cups left me feeling not so denied in my own dessertlessness.

Tea Time

Tea Time

Flaming sorbetFlaming sorbetWhen the apple tart arrived, our waiter squirted the accompanying ‘flaming apple sorbet’ with a mysterious flammable liquid he called ‘Brand-synth’. From the noises he was making whilst eating, I guessed my husband had got over his disappointing pigeon experience. Between enthusiastic chewing I picked out the words ‘tangy’, ‘very appley’ and ‘super that’.

I hope I’ve illustrated the fact I can spot the difference between teething problems and problem areas because George’s is definitely one worth a try. I’ll definitely be back to try amongst other things that afternoon tea and a trough of that amazing homemade bread.

You can follow Deanna Thomas on Twitter @DeannaThomas 

ALL SCORED CONFIDENTIAL REVIEWS ARE IMPARTIAL AND PAID FOR BY THE MAGAZINE.  

George’s Dining Room & Bar, 17-21 Barton Road, Worsley, M28 2PD. 0161 794 5444 

Rating: 15/20 
Food 7.5/10 (bread 9, soup 9, venison pud 7, sea bass 8, pigeon 5, apple tart 8)
Ambience 3.5/5
Service 4/5

PLEASE NOTE: Venues are rated against the best examples of their kind: fine dining against the best fine dining, cafes against the best cafes. Following on from this the scores represent: 1-5 saw your leg off and eat it, 6-9 get a DVD, 10-11 if you must, 12-13 if you’re passing,14-15 worth a trip,16-17 very good, 17-18 exceptional, 19 pure quality, 20 perfect. More than 20, we get carried away.

George's beige interiorGeorge's beige interior

George's bar areaGeorge's bar area

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18 comments so far, continue the conversation, write a comment.

GordoJanuary 8th 2014.

You've sold it to me Deanna :-)

AnonymousJanuary 8th 2014.

Wow, didn't expect you guys in after only 10 days and still in soft mode! But thanks for coming, your kind words and constructive suggestions. Andrew is still tweaking the menu and as you will have seen, we are still working on the exterior and interior ready for our official opening on 23rd Jan to which you were, of course, already invited. Hope to see you again then! George's

AnonymousJanuary 8th 2014.

if it's open it's open,

Daniel FosterJanuary 9th 2014.

When does soft mode end? We live very close and have been watching the buildout/opening with much interest.

1 Response: Reply To This...
AnonymousJanuary 9th 2014.

Jan 22nd?

StevepJanuary 9th 2014.

There is always a warming up period for any restaurant prior to the official opening date when all invited guests can be suitably impressed and absolutely nothing goes wrong. I was surprised that ManCon have issued a review so soon Come back in 3 months !!

PaulaJanuary 10th 2014.

How do you get invited to the opening on the 23rd?

January 10th 2014.

know Ryan Giggs or the other owners!

Hero
NiBsJanuary 15th 2014.

Deanna Thomas's review is very clear and descriptive, dare I say rather more so than some of the men who write reviews for this outfit. Looks interesting and I will certainly go. Thanks Deanne,

1 Response: Reply To This...
Mark GarnerJanuary 27th 2014.

you inferring Moi, Nibs? Grrr...

KateJanuary 23rd 2014.

Disappointed that I can't find a menu online. I'm travelling from Clitheroe which is well known for fantastic pubs and restaurants! Hope I won't be disappointed

1 Response: Reply To This...
AnonymousJanuary 24th 2014.

You can get the menu off their website www.georgesworsley.co.uk…

David WardleJanuary 26th 2014.

Very disappointed with the former Milans , same owners as far as I'm aware , but having vouchers as a present the restaurant closed before we could use them , having contacted George's to see if the vouchers were still valid we have had no reply , poor customer service so will not be trying in the near future

3 Responses: Reply To This...
Harry StylesFebruary 8th 2014.

Not the same owners

AnonymousFebruary 8th 2014.

Ryan Giggs never co-owned Milan!

AnonymousMarch 4th 2014.

David, have only just seen your comment having not been back on this page for a while and we were unaware of your situation. Please telephone the restaurant and ask for Liam and we'll get this sorted out for you. Anonymous, you're right, he didn't. George's.

SamMarch 23rd 2014.

5* prices for 1* food ordered medium steak comes well done, send it back 3 minutes later another steak comes which is warm still over done. At this point get the manager I tell him the problem,doesn't seem happy with what I'm saying as if it's me at fault. He .asks if I would like a different steak instead of fillet so I go for rib eye. The manager the tells me it's rare to medium what I want(I know what I want I want medium like I have been eating for the last 20yrs) the 3rd steak comes rare to medium which it isn't. The manager comes bk asks if ok? I say yes because every1 I am with has finished by this time,I think if your paying £25ish for a steak it should not be pre cooked and dry. Think the manager is out of his depth and has poor customer service skills.

AnonymousDecember 17th 2014.

Overpriced, low quality, shall not frequent again. Message passed to chef via waitress that £30 odd Dover sole had been poorly filleted received the pathetic response that it is very difficult to fillet a sole. What a sad crew!

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