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Gastros
Cat Johnson finds somewhere to camp out in the Village for good food
I’ve got a problem. I’ve got what I call 'mid price range, dining fatigue'. Perhaps you’ve experienced it too? Symptoms may include feeling you’ve been ripped off, and menu apathy. All too often, I leave a venue such as Restaurant Bar and Grill, the Living Room or Zinc, £70 lighter (after dinner for two), with a general feeling of indifference towards the place. The menus are generic and uninspiring. You have to ask - how many times can someone find Thai fish cakes or poached eggs on asparagus exciting? Surely there can be no excuse for such lapse menu rotation, not when you’re charging that kind of money.
In fact attention to detail and courteous service reigned supreme. For this alone, it stands above its peers. Gastros ticks a lot of boxes.
So I’m on a mission to find the best mid-price dining experience (three courses and a bottle of reasonably priced wine) in Manchester. My quest began in earnest, at Gastros, a new food hall and restaurant in the Village. And early signs are good. We were given a warm welcome by the manager, Richard O’Rourke, and escorted to our table in the dining room situated below the food hall and coffee bar. It’s to the interior designer’s credit that the dining room is such a light and inviting space, because it is after all in a basement, with natural light at a minimum. This space is a serious, design challenge, when you consider that there are also bars on the windows. Somehow it manages not to feel oppressive.
But what about the menu? Perhaps it’s more compact than its competitors but it’s no less appealing or lacking in range for it. To start, I plumped for diver caught scallops with daikon and pork belly (£7.25). And plump was the operative word, these scallops were whoppers: lightly pan fried to juicy perfection. My companion was equally satisfied with her Kidderton Ash goats cheese salad (£4.75). The cheese was creamy, but with vital tang, and the accompanying local beet and toasted pine nut salad made a happy companion. The presentation was interesting but not in a ‘try hard’ way. My experience with other mid-range dining is that it can look a little sterile or clinical: almost as though they’ve got a template in the kitchen.
On to the mains. My whole roast partridge, with maple bacon and bread sauce (11.95) was very good. It came cooked slightly pink (as promised by the waiter), with a lovely herby flavour. My companion's Cumbrian lamb rump with a mutton hotpot and turnip puree (£11.95), was terrific. The lamb was perfectly pink, and teeming with flavour. The small square of hotpot perched daintily next to it, was delicious. Frankly, I think they should super size that, and offer it as a main in its own right. Accompanied by sides of celeriac mash and winter roast vegetables, it was perfect comfort food for a drizzly, January evening. Sides are reasonably priced at £2.95. All this was washed down with a glass or two of Stonehedge Zinfandel 2005 (£19.95), the soft spiciness of the wine lending itself nicely to our mains, in particular the partridge.
The desserts were equally impressive. My poached pear and parfait with a tonka bean syrup (£4.95) was pretty lush, the parfait flecked with fresh vanilla pod rather than synthetically flavoured, and tasting all the better for it. I did however get serious dessert envy, at my companion's vanilla pannacotta with roasted figs (£4.95). It had more wobble and sway than the Beetham Tower and was deliciously creamy, without being cloying, due to a sharp hit of lemon. There was a nice touch at the end, when the waiter rushed obligingly upstairs to the Food Hall, to get a coffee from the shelf that wasn’t on the menu.
In fact attention to detail and courteous service reigned supreme. For this alone, it stands above its peers. Gastros ticks a lot of boxes. The produce is locally sourced, the menu superior in terms of its imagination, and the food is deftly prepared and presented. Add to that, the fact that they intend to change the menu seasonally, and you have a restaurant that is trying to offer something a little bit more exciting. Its challenge may turn out to be its geography. Stuck in their ways, city diners have a curious aversion to leaving the area around King Street and Deansgate. If they decide to explore other parts of the city centre then Gastros would be a good start.
| Rating: | 15/20 |
| Breakdown: | 7.5/10 Food 4.5/5 Service 3/5 Ambience |
| Address: | Gastro's 46 Sackville Street Manchester M1 3WF 0161 923 6856 Daily 7.30am until late |
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Yeh , its true the funeral is on the telly shortly , perhaps the funeral cortege will go down Sackville St . Oh , no it can't cause the damn planners have made it one way SORRY FRANK
............M.I.L.F .......>May I Live Forever........
Gastro's is in M1 - no need to venture out!
now that i want to see ricardo scrathing like a dog, walking sideways with his zimmerframe!!!!! may be he could rub the garlic butter on his crabs???
what happened to all the fruit and veg ? I used to read the posters in the windows and was under the impression that you would have loads of choice . Organic and local .....sounds great but it has'nt happened WHY ?
Ther is a sign outside clearly stating the sofas are coming back , YEH YEH just do it Baby , I cant wait to christen one !
Stuff the Metro , ate there two nights ago .Food really good.......plenty of smiling customers , and you will be pleased to know the head waiter is now taking his ritallin . So all in all , not a bad job
I've been twice, once for dinner and once for brunch. On both occasions the service was faultless.Dinner (a steak) was superb, a very good piece of meat cooked to perfection.Brunch, while delicious, left me still feeling very hungry. Guys, you need to revisit your brunch portion sizes!
At least the Squire and his merry bunch of serfs are having a go ! Whenever I have dined or just for a coffee at Gastros , the service is good I used to go to Olive on the corner and they were down right rude .
o m g it must be the same ricardo anonymous! as he states above he has fresh crabs, wonder if he walks sideways ????
Since we seem to have deviated from the main topic somewhat, can I just take this opportunity to express my utter dismay at the standard of spelling, punctuation and grammar? Never mind 'slalds' (obviously a typo), where the f**k does the word 'dos'nt' come from? Crap spelling and punctuation in one neat package. Oh dear. I need to get out more.
OHH you merchant banker , right sez Fred . You mess with my boy Phil and I will have you Good and proper get in there , ave the bacon roll , pay for it and shut it . No one ponces with my lad GET IT . He's worked ard to build ASTROS
never mind the slaids go and have a look at the dark haired head waiter downstairs , very friendly and runs around like a demented looney very dishy and smooth with it though . we all watch him through the window on sackville street
Hey Desssie , how did you know I was going out with Daniel Day Lewis !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Gastros is going to be turned into a Gay lap dancing club called Ricardos
Come on Babs , lets "ave a bit more than that . whats Ronnie Scotts like I have never been?Is their coffee better than Gastros , I only ask because I am curious LOL
Ramsays a bigger wanker
I still cant believe Gastros has gone
blimey mate , whats happened on sackville st
Whooooo !!!!!!! you , you sound like a nounce or at least a nouncy boy
Gordo's had plenty of M.I.L.F.s
Shame about Gastros
Are mancon trying to break the world record for most commas in a review?
Gastros now has a Brazillan !!!!!!!!!!!
I will have you know , you piece of ignorant poteen dreg Dat my left foot has four A levels and a bloody certificate in Manual Handling
Franks dead and its nothing to do with Gastros
The coffee... at Gastro's is the best this side of Seattle. I should know... it's where I'm from. Rgrds, Noel
My , oh my sounds like Ricardo has had a bottle of the Stonehedge Zinfandel 2005 to himself . What the hell are slalds ? Perhaps they are a cool and modern culinary term for salads ?????
So whats going to happen on the Gastros site ? Shame , I really loved going into there
I am sorry Kevin , your dad was rubbish and his memory obviously is failing . It was behind the Soho jazz club Ronnie Scotts
Agreed Zena , I he reminds me of Gene , the loud and arrogant copper from Life on Mars . Put him in a light brown car coat , add a pair of driving gloves and hey presto . All who agree , add a rant
Hey Paul , the aforementioned Mr Howard had crabs , according to rumour
My boy , Phil he's crying now but 'e will pick 'imself up and start all over agin . Not in that damn village mind . They wold not know quality if they stepped in it
Julian , I have it on good authority you are wrong , indeed quite wrong on all accounts
".......just read the metro review . Oh Sir , did that hurt ..does Sir want more ? to the Squire of gastros read the review carefully and order the serfs to act upon your orders with great haste......."
Best place for a reasonable feed is the English Lounge. It is still quite cheap and the portions are massive.
Thought it might happen , sorry it has R.I.P Gastros
Hey Daniel , congratulations on your Oscar........ if I see you in the Village I will buy you a coffee at Gastros. God knows you will being needing one after reading all this ****e !
Phil Mitchell lookalike , priceless just priceless . I am going in there today and speak to him in a gruff east end rasping manner and see if he replies in an according manner .
Gordo's mum always used to make him eat his slalds, thats why he is like he is...
Hey observer , you are right I was in earlier on and they are dressed like Chaps who live in Chelsea and weekend in the Cotswolds . The rest of the guys who wear black look more comfortable
Madge sounds like my old English teacher , especially when she had a lunchtime drink .I go on Sunday and have brunch overlooking the park , works well with a hangover.
What is M.I.L.F ? I know its go nothing to do with Gastros , sorry but I dont want to ask my friends and look stupid
Thats intresting you can get crabs in the gay village
loved the comment about the head waiter taking ritallin , Right said Fred has got it spot on, I have watched him several times. When it first opened , I like everyone who lives around here when in, he was manic really manic , looks like the Phil Mitchell lookaright owner has managed to get him to take his medicine , FABULOUS , JUST FABULOUS
I think ricardo is a drink like pernod , I remember my brother used to drink it in the seventies . maybe it was called ricard . He become a real food snob and he caught crabs from a girl that he picked up at Disco Royale , the beer they sell in gastros is however very good its from that pub on rochdale road marble arch
No, it stands for My Ignorant Left Foot
shame he does not bite
Cant wait for the sofas to come back , do you think they will be just like the other one's ?
Thanks for this review will check it out, my first choice in Manchester is Brasserie Blanc - they have a great seasonal menu and really good value 2/3 course lunch and early evening deals - I searched Manchester Confidential and can't find any reviews even though its been open for a while? - can someone from here go, fill their mouth-part then leave words here afterwards? :)
My fiancé and I went to Gastros for lunch yesterday and it was really amazing. We had the soup of the day which was Butternut Squash and then I had Eggs Benedict which were really really lovely and he had sardines on toast. I really hope this place succeeds as it is a little bit out of the way and people might forget that its there. I hope they don't though because its really worth a go!
gastros..first casualty of the year . Not I suspect will be the last Great shame
My father Shaun , once told me that he had had Barbara Windsor behind the Kit Kat club in London in the late fifties . I have always wondered if it was true ?
we had dinner last week and yes , you are right about the head waiter . He is obviously on something ! If he was'nt running around like something was on fire then he was trying to flirt all the women .HE needs a cold shower.......... but his recommendation of the wine was spot on , so the girls forgive him .
Frankie Howard has been found dead in Gastros ! Nooooooo I dont believe it
Sorry you are gone Gastros , best wishes to all the wonderful and friendly staff . Great effort . I know the owner , the afore mentioned Squire will be gutted .
Just been told the Mad Head Waiter has left the building..... for good . That's a loss to Gastros , the rest of em will need to up their bar.
I like it because its different , Its not real groovy , not dark and funky , not even wild and full of sensual promise like so many places in the village . What it is , is honest . Yes , honest amazingly so . It is wonderful to have a place close by that delivers exactly what it says on the boards outside.... support the damn place or we will always be condemmed to sit on uncomfortable sofas next door or suffer terrible customer service at the so called deli on the corner . ENOUGH SAID !
Don't know if you have been recently - the deli is now stacked wth good quality meats, fish, (even crabs when i was there, slalds, sandwiches, pies, all sorts...
I agree , it would be a shame , a real crying shame . The whole area of eating out is slowly but just as sure being choked by chains , American influenced and staffed by boring dreadfully insincere tossers . The trouble is that I have been many , many times and there is not enough people in it . I have a real concern that it will not survive . Lord knows the survival rate for restaurants is bad enough but in todays tight fiscal condition who knows ? So , my dear Gezzabelle , I for you hope with all my heart you are right for there is nothing more truly sad than a closed door on a Monday morning with a A4 piece of paper pinned to it . Remember , use it or lose it . Watch this space
Thanks for all your comments - yes the menu will change seasonally pony boy - we are working now on what spring is about! optimism, floral & aromatic dishes and obviously spring lamb, etc..What would you like to see @ Gastro's this spring? - let us know via my website http://www.gastrosfood.co.ukRegards, Richard
I second Patrick, the Eggs Benedict are sublime.
Where's that A-Z? Thanks for pointing out the postal district error folks. Will rectify.
What you probably sence is relief!The place is much beter off without the mad waiter, we can all relax now!
Had lunch in there today with several of my colleagues , great food . Smashing little waitress , didnt see Peggy Mitchell .We will return
come on now, lets forget about the slaids. The home roast ham is absolutely slublime! Sleriouly, Ricardo, smort your smelling out, it's embarrassing. Anyhow, I think Gastro is excellent. The restaurant could do with a little work on the lighting, atmosphere etc but the food is amazing. They're obviously using really good quality ingredients and It's great to be getting what you pay for. The chef is a bit of a fitty but shush, I here he has a girlfriend!
The guy upstairs in charge and the head waiter downstairs { who is potty ] and the owner all dress the same . I noticed it last week when they were all stood together . There is a kinda of country , lord of the manor, Sloane Ranger feel to it . I suppose its Gastros contribution to the Village people . All together " They gonna take them to the YMCA '
Gastros blog , 17.1.08 PRICELESS , SO FUNNY . Barbara Windsor and a semi stiff one
M.I.L.F. stands for Many Individuals Love France
Just seen the sofas in Gastros , they are fab......all we need now is some rocking music and this Babe is ready to roll . I cant wait for Mardi to happen in Gastros WOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
had a valentines meal with my partner , very good .I like the table right in the corner you can see every body and its comfortable . Do not agree with the metro , our meal was great
Madge,if you're going to take the piss out of poor Ricardo.....Did you here or hear?
elegant diva , his name is Andy and you are right he is smooth . However he dos'nt bite, so pop downstairs and say hello to him.
Just come back from having dinner there , restaurant busy , every body happy , service warm and friendly . Just a great and relaxing place . I am a bit drunk but it was great
ate there last night, food fantastic service very good, nice ambience, the food counter is looking good now, the seafood section was impressive and the bread is quality. They said the new menu's coming in soon, so look forward to that.
Come back elegant diva and tell us more , the suspence is killing us
the head waiter downstairs; although enthusiastic and diligent, needs to change his sense of dress. Something to accentuate the butt cleavage would do the trick
Barbara Windsor and a semi-stiff one , PRICELESS !
Well said kodak , the truth of the matter is we live in such a supermarket dominated world that we are almost conditioned to accept their offerings at their cartel fixed prices . I think that Gastros has got some way to go , but I ate twice there last week . Food was great , more people in the restaurant and the music was thankfully more consistent but the service is warm and honest . The staff seem to have got over their opening nerves and I think its moving forward . Finally , I feel we have got something thats not part of a chain , thats got to be grateful for
Its hard to make sense of sence , obviously Mr Happy not a Mr Spelling
Gastros is good not great. I worry also about the location as well. This place is better than Velvet and Taurus the two survivors in the Village of decent food. I remember Sarasota never working above Manto. I hope people give this place a chance.
Gene Hunt from life on mars is coming back in a new series called ashes to ashes. Does that mean that the head waiter is going AWOL for a while ?
might I light forever.............my love for you
Sarasota; well remembered. I ate lunch there with the ex editor of the Good Food Guide, remeber a stonking rack of lamb. I liked it a lot, as did Drew Smith.
The tall Irish fellow who works at Gastros sounds like James Nesbit from Cold Feet and Murphys . He is good , I saw James on the telly the other night in some bizarre Cinderella Crap programme and the Irish Gastos guy could have been his voice double
Blimey, what on earth has happened in this rant!
The spirit has gone out of the place with the demise of the mad Head Waiter . The vessel feels cold and without fire . I denote a certain air of despaire within the walls of Gastros
Touchy , Touchy Mr Collins , We think you protest too much. Have you never heard the expression M.I.L.F ?
It is in M1...
Damn shame about gastros , great place . It will I suspect end up as a Tesco Express
Hey Mr Happy , We beg to differ with you . The Mad Head Waiter with his own sense of flair , high octane energy and animal enthusiasm is much lamented . We agree with Sid James , the world is poorer for such a beast with magnetism ,zeal , elan and a hint of the martinet.
"Metro in not very good review shocker" No way, seriously!?
I had a steak there last week , called a strange name onglet or something like that . The head waiter strongly recommended it , trust me it was amazing.Service was good but they dont need to stand there watching you , get em polishing glasses or the like
I like the way you can just go and get a great coffee , read the paper and look over the park . Its relaxing and brings a bit of solace to busy , noisy and stressful city centre living . I for one , am glad they are here . There is no where else like it....I dont care what they dress like
right thats it , I am off to dinner at gastros . to the dashing smooth head waiter heres my order " I would like Crab Ricardo with a side order of slaids , extra garlic butter and a nice bottle of that Zimmerframe that was mentioned before . I was in earlier for lunch and they had lobsters not crabs so I might need to change my order
I am afraid you are so correct , Blue Peter . The standard of the blog has declined . I personally think that once the whole Barbara Windsor experience came to the front , the raison d'etre has fallen . Whilst I freely admit to having a semi-stiff one in regard to the afore mentioned Miss Windsor , can I ask all readers of this mildly amusing blogto try to keep up high standards . Gastros is certainly trying its best .I was a member of the Kit Kat club in the late fifties Thank you , Mr D . Bracewell
Thanks for this review, I've been having a lot of brunches at Gastros and have been considering booking it for my birthday which is comming up. I've been nervous about not having chance to road test it first. (I've inflicted some bloody awful restaurants on my friends over the years by not checking them out; notably the unlamented Le Mont!)I think I'll go ahead and book it now though!
I don't know what's all this rubbish about crabs and Ricardo is about , I DO know that thank God there is somewhere now decent to have a coffee , lunch and dinner within walking distance of my apartment . I had dinner in the new Russian restaurant on Sackville St the other night , no comparision at all . Gastros to me is a breath of fresh air to the village , if you dont use it , you will lose it . Do you really want a Tesco Express or you can be like the good citizens of Chorlton and fight them .
They had boxes of the stuff the other week . I t was in front of the railings near the wine . If you want something in there , ask em . they have got massive signs all over the place stating that fact !
the upstairs cafe is well known for its great service, friendly atmosphere and fantastic lunch menu. having tried most of the aforementioned lunch menu i took Mrs. Mike to the downstairs restaurant and was blown away. The fantastic pinot grigio coupled with the succulent lamb and Mrs. Mike's spatchcock chicken and a very reasonable bill assure i'll be visiting again. highly recommended
John The Brief, I agree the brunch meneu sizes could be a little larger with more variety perhaps. The coffee is great BEST IN TOWN I think. LOVE IT! Its good to see the sandwiches keep them on the menu. Down side I wish the seats upstairs were more comfortable to encourage you to sit for longer and relax. Otherwise another great visit. Keep up the good work. I will be coming back.
There will be horses and carts outside Gastros next , coffee Fab , handdryers in the toilets Fab , Chips Fab, eggs benedict Fab , Steaks Fab.........not so good staff smoking outside front door . Tell the country style managers to move the serfs to the side . Do you get Serfs to the Side ha ha I know its not a slalds but at least I try
@ TV fan; ohhh yes the James Nesbitt-alike upstairs sure is an eyeful. He can stuff me with his posh Calabrian Chorizo any day
The food was excellent and the chocolate cakes are to die for. The music at times is an aquired taste but you dont notice it after drinking the great wine. The wines also make the waiters look twice as nice.
I was in there yesterday and the head waiter has gone , mad but not forgotten
They have started on the Gastros site , to build Slick Ricks , its a interactive and inventive food concept ....watch this space
Ye God's , can we please get back to the damn subject . What's all this bull**** about east enders , Barbara Windsor!!!!!!!! For petes sake she is old enough to have a bus pass . Can we get back to the main event, what is the place like in relation to its offering of food and drink ?
Sorry , wrong blog ......Gastros is great
Blimey , went on a long break , come back and Gastros is gone . Bloody hell , I had just got into the habit of a great coffee over looking the park . Now I suppose its back to that moaning and miserable cow on the corner Frau Olive
Gastros has gone
Give them all cravats ,then they can swan around with a glass of Pimms and order the serfs to search for the salalds
MAY I LOOK FURTHER ?
At last , somewhere thats trying hard . Staff are keen , food is great , eggs benedict bloody marvelous and the chips !!!!!!! the best in the city centre and you are right the deli counter is much better . The coffee is just as good as I used to drink in Suburb
calling the police....
Music in gastros is so erratic . Its either lift music or some strange chanting bizarre stuff . Get some thing that uplifts the soul and makes the dining experience a pleasure....bacon buttie truly great .
Bring back Gastros
I can't believe it! It had barely had a chance to register on peoples' radars and it's gone already. Such a shame, they must have spent a fortune converting it.
What about the "deli" upstairs though- you couldn't do a shop there could you? A selection of organic oats and some pasta- is that it? The day I went the meat counter looked postitively communist with just a ham, a beef joint and three little chickens. Katsouris it ain't...