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Dish Of The Week: Chateaubriand, Eden

Confidential discovers beautiful meat with a curious history by the waterside

Published on April 30th 2012.


Dish Of The Week: Chateaubriand, Eden

What’s a Chateauthingy then?

It’s a tenderloin, and everybody knows how tender loins are. It’s a cut of muscle that hangs high on the back of cattle towards the rear. It’s apparently not used much by the beast so is richer and tender. I always describe it like this to small children and people who aren’t master butchers:  ‘it’s the psoas major muscle ventral to the transverse processes of the lumbar vertebrae'.

Bet you do. So if it's a part of a cow what’s that Frenchie name all about?

Now there’s a thing. It’s named after the French Lord Byron, François-René, Vicomte de Chateaubriand. This was the man that introduced the Romantic movement into French art, following on from our Wordsworth, Blake and Shelley. He was a writer, diplomat, explorer and traveller, politician and soldier. In one of the Napoleanic War battles he was shot to pieces, but was patched up by the Brits. He was a bit of lad too, while recovering he fell in love with Charlotte Ives, but had to call it off when she found out he was already married to Céleste Buisson de la Vigne. He was prodigiously unfaithful to the latter.

Er, right and what’s this got to do with meat?

Apparently Chateaubriand’s chef - during one of the latter’s prosperous periods when he could afford a chef - prepared the tenderloin cut for him, and served it with a reduction of wine, shallots, butter, tarragon and lemon juice. Our main man then named it graciously after himself rather than his chef, one Montmireil, who had actually come up with the dish. Well the latter was just a mere scummy employee after all. Can I do one last piece of history?

If you must....

The dish was first given to Chateaubriand during Manchester Pride Week in 1825, by Montmiriel here at Eden in the Village, after a gig by Erasure on the main stage round the corner. Apparently he was particularly impressed by the song, ‘A Little Respect’ and the line ‘I’ll be forever blue’, which is exactly how Chateaubriand liked his steak.

That’s not true is it?

No, which is regretful because François-René would have love the Chateaubriand we stumbled across in Eden.

Chateaubriand - EdenChateaubriand - Eden

How so?

Tender paradise it is (if you forgive the religious punning), falling, melting into the mouth as you chew upon the flesh. It’s a simply delightful cut, cooked with pride, in the way requested, on our visit medium rare. It comes with a range of sauces as well, so you can add the kick you want. Frankly just give me the flesh, cooked simply. The main reward here is the simple yet sophisticated pleasure built into this locally sourced meat. As the picture shows, there’s tomato and mushroom action too, but it's all about getting that Chateaubriand right.

Anything else?

Well yeah you get that Eden USP too, the bohemian feel of bar that’s a feast of exposed brick and tough warehouse beams laid out against a waterside, in this case the Rochdale Canal. And one further thing....

Wow, the gift that keeps on giving.

Yes we liked this so much we asked if we could do a deal on it for our readers. They can get it for £17.50pp (£35 per couple) including a glass of Shiraz, Pinot Grigio or White Zinfandel each. Normally this would cost £28pp (£56 per couple) so now's the time to try it. Find out more.

EdenEden

ChateaubriandChateaubriand

Chateaubriand Always Get Some Tenderloin In His Jacket And Would Feel It From Time To Time To Make Himself HappyChateaubriand Always Kept Some Tenderloin In His Jacket And Would Feel It From Time To Time To Make Himself Very Happy

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