Trof Fallowfield reviewed

The understated exterior of the original outlet of this four-strong Manchester institution, tucked just off Wilmslow Road in Fallowfield, gives little of its cosy, quirky interior away.

I got excited when I saw the sign above the stairs on the ground floor advertising a roof terrace, because that kind of thing tends to be nice on a warmish April evening. It’s bijoux, which wasn’t a problem as it wasn’t especially busy, and the patio heaters made it feel more like midday in the Mediterranean than an evening in South Manchester.

There’s a good range of speciality beer and cider, including something on tap, mysteriously named ‘Trof’s special lager’ as well as cocktails from £2. Although a little pricey, from around £4 there is a range of imported, mainly American ales not often found in bars, particularly bars in Fallowfield, including the sublime Brooklyn Beer.

The vodka tonic tasted like vodka tonic, and the Brooklyn, much tastier than its fizzy European counterparts, seemed worthy of its numerous awards. The bar is wonderfully devoid of the row of pumps offering generic cheap lager, found in Fallowfield’s array of sticky, studenty Scream-esque pubs. The menu also advertises a range of smoothies, milkshakes, and speciality teas at reasonable prices; ideal for daytime visitors.

Trof’s got an eclectic style - the stairs look like they’ve been taken straight from a very old public toilet, while the toilets themselves carry elevator signs stating their capacity. The menu is illustrated rather than typed and these things give the place a rough and ready look. The rustic wooden tables and benches and shabby chic mix of furniture places Trof somewhere between arty bar and European bistro.

I got excited when I saw the sign above the stairs on the ground floor advertising a roof terrace, because that kind of thing tends to be nice on a warmish April evening. It’s bijoux, which wasn’t a problem as it wasn’t especially busy, and the patio heaters made it feel more like midday in the Mediterranean than an evening in South Manchester. The view on the other hand - the side of The Chesire Cat pub and a derelict looking building covered in graffiti - wasn’t the best accompaniment.

The atmosphere, or rather, lack of is probably the only real criticism of Trof, although it was a Sunday night. There was a film being shown to about ten people upstairs, while downstairs was very brightly lit, more like a café than a bar. Out on the roof terrace, aka smokers’ paradise, there was no music, just the sound of the drama student waxing lyrical on headshots, casting and those ‘made for musical theatre’, to another girl, who was probably a drama student but couldn’t get more than three words in./p>>

We didn’t eat but did play ‘what would you get from the menu’, which was tough, as most of it looked good. If the food, which is predominantly British or Mediterranean, lives up to the billing on the menu then Trof seems like an excellent alternative to Fallowfield’s greasy take-aways and mundane chain pubs. Plus it’s always useful to find somewhere serving breakfast till 4pm, which Trof does. The menu caters especially well for vegetarians, offering more than just a falafel burger, which is hard to find, but always nice to see.

Most things are locally sourced/free range/Freedom farmed/etc, the bread is organic and made by someone called Mark, and Trof is mostly wind-powered, making it perfect for tree hugging students and Prius driving professionals alike.

Don’t be put off by this quirky venue’s Fallowfield address; there are no sticky floors or sticky menus, just a good range of drinks and a menu that’s got me planning on returning.

Venues are rated against the best examples of their kind: fine dining against the best fine dining, cafes against the best cafes. Following on from this the scores represent: 1-5 saw your leg off and eat it, 6-9 get a DVD, 10-11 if you must, 12-13 if you’re passing,14-15 worth a trip,16-17 very good, 17-18 exceptional, 19 pure quality, 20 perfect. More than 20: Gordo gets carried away