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River Terrace, The Lowry

Gordo, the Chief Constable and some very tasty scallops

Written by . Published on July 25th 2008.


River Terrace, The Lowry

Gordo was feeling bored so he decided to tack along with the editor, Schofield, to the press call at the Lowry Hotel for the announcement of the new Chief Constable, a seemingly pleasant bloke called Peter Fahy who was previously the gaffer over Cheshire. If he comes down Back Piccadilly and Spear Street he will be in for a right shock, it isn’t Blue Bell Lane in Prestbury. After thirty minutes Gordo was gagging for a pint, so he went down to the bar, got a couple of bottles of Marble Brewery’s Lagonda.

After thirty minutes Gordo was gagging for a pint, so he went down to the bar, got a couple of bottles of Marble Brewery’s Lagonda. Lagonda is another word for rocket fuel.

Lagonda is another word for rocket fuel. Sitting out on the veranda, having been joined by the Chairman, Gordo spies a very good looking dish going by. Mackerel on toast. Unable to resist, Gordo orders a portion. This was a fantastic bit of fish, beautifully cooked accompanied by a gooseberry sauce which cut the richness of the fish in a way that bordered on greatness.

Having asked for the menu, Gordo realises that someone has been given the job of re-engineering Eyck Zimmer’s menus, now that Gordo’s old pal has left for Lisbon. Oysters! Half a dozen Duchy of Cornwall specials and another six Maldon Rocks went down well, possible the best shucked oysters Gordo has had for a while, one even had a bit of seaweed stuck to it. Guinness with these.

The Hotel has a ‘777’ menu to celebrate their seventh birthday; £7 for the starter, £7 for the main course and £7 quid for the pudding. Gordo mentions this because the mackerel was from this menu, as was the Chairman’s choice of a bacon chop with mashed spuds. Which turned out to be a handsome dish. The chefs change this menu every week.

Gordo chose a main course off the new a la carte, which has some fabulous looking treats on it. Baked hand dived scallops with garlic butter, on the shell, (£24.95) caught his eye and they were five, huge fat buggers cooked brilliantly. ‘Hand dived’ is a term over used in many restaurants but these were. It took almost a whole loaf of bread to mop up the garlic butter.

Finally a summer pudding which took Gordo back to his youth, the very first lunch at Michael and June Hague’s patio in Alderley Edge, 1976, served on their veranda. Perfect. Which is what dining out on a warm summer’s evening on the Lowry Terrace is.

We thought the parkin was too cake-like, not sticky enough if you know what Gordo means.

The 777 menu is available through lunch and between six and seven in the evening. Oliver Thomas is the chef; he has been with Sir Rocco for seven years and has risen through the ranks. Working alongside Mark Hix, Oliver has the making of a star chef and a worthy successor to the delightful Eyck. Sorry, no pictures of food, Gordo’s camera malfunctioned.

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