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Reserve Champagne Bar Reviewed

Neil Sowerby is effervescent over the Radisson Edwardian's arcadian booze

Written by . Published on January 10th 2013.


Reserve Champagne Bar Reviewed

 

THE Saturday night knicker flashers of Peter Street, where are they now? They're as much history as Peterloo now all the old bars have shut and that lambrini-fuelled thoroughfare of shame reinvents itself through hoppy craft beer (BrewDog) or limited edition rums (Revolucion de Cuba).
Settling into a suddenly warm and clubbable space we contemplated a magnum of Krug Grande Cuvée Brut for a cool £835
 
Prime spot for watching all those demure young virgins tottering out of Brannigans (itself soon to be an indie music mecca) was the Radisson’s Colonnade across the road. Of course, it worked both ways with many a friendly hand gesture aimed back.
 
The long, glassed in Colonnade has always been an awkward space within the otherwise sympathetic hotel conversion of the Free Trade Hall, set to continue with expansion into the once-disco-infested Theatre Royal next door. 
 
Compared with this, the investment in transforming the Colonnade into the champagne bar Reserve @ Opus One is minimal. Just a small stand-alone bar and well-stocked shelves tucked in at one end. They’ll be recouping much of the spend if they offload a few bottles of Roederer Cristal at £341 a go (it’s £280 at Epernay down the road, by the way). 
 
Settling into a suddenly warm and clubbable space we contemplated a magnum of Krug Grande Cuvée Brut for a cool £835 and then settled for by-the-glass to accompany a range of tapas sized dishes from the Opus One kitchens, modestly priced between £4 and £6.
 
These were a mixed bunch. Pick were belly pork scampi with Eddisbury Farm apple puree (£4) and and saffron tempura of prawn with sweet chili mayo (£6). Sesame coated tuna wasabi was just odd.
 
Until 6pm it’s the place to take tea and cake, then the fizz kicks in. House champagne is Mercier Brut at £9.90 a glass, but I’d suggest trading up, as we did, to Pol Roger Brut (£21.25) and Laurent Perrier Rose (£33). Better value would be to share a bottle of either, at £77.75 and £120.95 respectively. 
 
Again they work out cheaper at Epernay on Watson Street, but there you don’t get to pose amid such sumptuous surroundings and dramatic vaulted ceilings. Minus the old distractions outside.
 
Reserve @ Opus, Radisson Edwardian Blu, Free Trade Hall, Peter Street M2 5GP. Web 

Laurent Perrier RoseLaurent Perrier Rose

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7 comments so far, continue the conversation, write a comment.

avoJanuary 10th 2013.

£33 for a glass of LP Rose?!?!?!? Are they for real? That equates to £198 a bottle.

Sorry, but I'd rather sit at the bar at the Grill on the Alley, take advantage of their half price offer and while away an afternoon over mussels, a t-bone steak, a glass of champagne and still have change from my £33 to buy a newspaper to read.

CobbydalerJanuary 10th 2013.

Ridiculous prices & the knicker flashers are still on Peter Street.

AnonymousJanuary 11th 2013.

Looks classy/if a little dull - if that's your thing...

It's an international five star hotel, so it's not gonna be cheap is it?! Not really the point...

Saying that the steak and lobster are and pretty good to boot!

avoJanuary 12th 2013.

Anon, you can't use the fact that this is a 5 star hotel to justfy those champagne prices.

For comparison, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay charge £19 for a glass of Billecart Salmon Rose which is a far superior and more expensive champagne than Laurent Perrier Rose for which the Radisson are charging £33 a glass. The prices they are charging are wholly unreasonable.

GlossopsharkJanuary 17th 2013.

Tried it on Saturday, and it is no Epernay......

AnonymousJanuary 17th 2013.

Popped in not so long ago for an early afternoon glass of champagne before lunch at Rosso's as Epernays was shut. (to early). Nearly fell of my tall bar stool at £11 a glass + £2 service. £24!! for 2 glasses of house champagne. Guess i'm just not rich enough...

1 Response: Reply To This...
AnonymousJanuary 17th 2013.

It's Rosso and Epernay.

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