Digestifs

“What are you drinking?”

“Irish coffee.”

“What’s that then?”

“Espresso, Irish whiskey, cream, a little sugar.”

“Can I try some?”

(Across the table, ‘Oohs’ and ‘Ahhs’ can be heard between slurps.)

“Mmm...why didn’t you tell me about those?”

“You said you didn’t want coffee.”

“Yeah, but I didn’t know you could get coffee like that. I’m having one of those next time.”

Ah, the humble Irish coffee. Just one of many delicious ways to round off a meal. It simultaneously manages to warm the cockles and make your insides melt. It’s sweet, but not too sweet, while providing a subtly delicious alcoholic kick at the same time. It’s also a crafty introduction to the world of digestif cocktails.

Whereas aperitifs tend to be slightly drier and more bitter in order to purse the palate and prepare you for dinner, digestifs tend to be sweeter, creamier affairs. Sexy, silken, decadent. I once introduced a friend to an exquisitely made Brandy Alexander (brandy, dark crème de cacao, double cream and grated nutmeg to garnish) whereupon tasting he announced, “That’s so rude it borders on porn in a glass”. Interesting way of putting it, but I knew what he was getting at. I watched bemused as he sank back into his chair, rolling the drink around his mouth, savouring its aroma, texture and taste.

The Brandy Alexander is a classic after dinner drink (try it with chocolate truffles). The problem is finding a barkeep who knows what they’re doing. Fortunately, the bar staff at Harvey Nichols Second Floor Restaurant, Bar & Brasserie, do. From the initial nose of nutmeg, through its silkily textured body and the warmth and quality of the brandy, their version hit the right spots at the right times (£7.50).

On the occasion my cocktail cohort and I visited, they also prepared a luscious, smooth espresso Martini (fresh espresso, vodka, dash of sugar syrup, coffee beans to garnish) with a velvet-like consistency that slinked down the sides of the glass (£7.50). This is a drink I’d recommend if you’ve just enjoyed a meal and are looking for a swift alcoholic kick in the pants to keep you going for the rest of the night (rather than a drink for unbuttoning them and slumping by the fire). We reckon they offer the best version of this cocktail in Manchester.

But if it’s after dinner slumping you’re after, you’ll want to take a look at Brandy, Cognac and whisky based concoctions. I sampled a Rusty Nail (Scotch whisky, Drambuie, orange zest to garnish) in the bar at Casino 235 (£6.60 – 10 per cent discount for members). For anyone who scoffs at the idea of cocktails, try one of these. If you’re wary of drinking whisky neat, the Drambuie softens the edges without diluting its spirited punch. Most blokes I know enjoy this drink as it seems to provide a show of manliness. Despite my high tolerance for spirits, even I have to take it easy with this one.

While in 235, my cocktailian cohort also sampled the Amaretto sour (amaretto, sugar syrup, egg white, lemon juice) – another delicious digestif that would work well with cantuccini. However, he wasn’t impressed. Neither was he impressed with the Amaretto sour offered in The Circle Club. After tasting, we half expected it to limp away from the table, head bowed in shame. Their Brandy Alexander and Black Russian weren’t up to much either. In fact, as far as their drinks and overall service were concerned, it was a poor show all round.

In another after hours joint, Corridor, I lingered over a Blood and Sand (£6). Although not on the menu, Ian Morgan whipped one up without breaking a sweat.

A similarly hardcore cocktail composed of Scotch whisky, sweet vermouth, cherry brandy and orange juice, this is a digestif perhaps more suited for cocktail connoisseurs. If you’re well versed with your Scotch you may wish to opt for one that isn’t peaty. Nuanced, it’s not an easy one to get right: you’re looking for the drink to taste like liquid Christmas pudding, so you may need to experiment with various whiskies until you hit upon the right combination.

Digestifs should compliment dessert, so as with wine, think about taste combinations – Calvados (apple brandy) following an apple based dessert or Cognac teamed with crème brulee.

Next time, restoratives.

The breakdown:

Venue: Harvey Nichols, Second Floor Restaurant, Bar & Brasserie, 21 New Cathedral Street, M1 1AD. 0161 828 8898.
Cocktail: Brandy Alexander: (Flavour 5/5, Presentation 5/5, Flair 5/5, Ambience 4.5/5) Total 19.5/20
Cocktail: Espresso Martini: (Flavour 5/5, Presentation 5/5, Flair 5/5, Ambience 4.5/5) Total 19.5/20

Venue: Manchester 235 Casino, Watson Street, M3. 0161 828 0300.
Cocktail: Rusty Nail: (Flavour 3.5/5, Presentation 4/5, Flair 3/5, Ambience 3.5/5) Total 14/20
Cocktail: Amaretto Sour: (Flavour 2.5/5, Presentation 4/5, Flair 3/5, Ambience 3.5/5) Total 10/20

Venue: Corridor, 6-8 Barlow’s Croft, Salford, Manchester.
Cocktail: Blood and Sand: (Flavour 4.5/5, Presentation 5/5, Flair 5/5, Ambience 4.5/5) Total 19/20

Venue: The Circle Club, 13 Barton Arcade, Barton Square, M3 2BB. 0161 288 8118.
Cocktail: Brandy Alexander: (Flavour 2/5, Presentation 3/5, Flair 3/5, Ambience 3/5) Total 11/20
Cocktail: Amaretto Sour: (Flavour 2.5/5, Presentation 3/5, Flair 3/5, Ambience 3/5) Total 11.5/20
Cocktail: Black Russian: (Flavour 1/5, Presentation 3/5, Flair 3/5, Ambience 3/5) Total 10/20